Day 2, Thursday 11 April, Loei

Final Tour....... There have been no issues overnight at Hop Inn and in this location the rate is reasonable and not fully booked at this time. We wake quite early and little effort is expended on finding something for breakfast. We have plenty of time today to reach our destination in Loei and have identified some natural attractions on the way. Otherwise, this trip north will not feature the railway or football stadiums. As far as this stay in Thailand is concerned these are now extinct. Our route today takes us north along HWY 201 into the western part of Khon Kaen Province before entering Loei where we will spend at least three nights. We leave at a reasonable time and head north.
We are still in Chaiyaphum Province when Katoon mentions a local delicacy from Kaeng Khro District. It's really too early for lunch though but I'm told later in the days it's unavailable. The dish is Larb Phet which is minced duck eaten with rice served with herbs. We just have to stop and try it out. We press on and select the town of Chum Phae in Khon Kaen Province as a convenient half-way point. Here there are some attractions of note. However, we see an attraction sign boarded from the main road not on out list but clearly of some importance.
Non Muang Ancient Town....... Arriving at Non Muang Ancient Town, I've no idea what to expect, some ancient ruins perhaps but there are no ancient structures here. What there is here surprises me.
On an oval hill with double moats, archaeologists have found sandstone Sema boundary markers in Dvaravati style in the town and nearby. Potsherds were scattered around. Some were painted in red, and some decorated with incising and cord-marked patterns. In the soil layer of the Dvaravati period (7-11th century), no funeral-related artifacts were found so, archaeologists presumed that the funeral practice of this town changed after the arrival of Buddhism. In deeper soil, more interesting historical evidence was discovered. Archaeologists found that there used to be a human settlement here since the late prehistoricperiod. They discovered human skeletons dating back 2,500 years. Funeral tools and utensils were buried together with the bodies. The utensils found included pottery decorated with a painted, incising and cord-marked pattern, bronze and animal-bone bangles, shells, colorful beads, as well as iron tools such as hoe and sickle, and animal bones; namely deer, barking deer, and different fish. These artifacts prove that people in this community lived on agriculture until the Lop Buri period (11-12th century).
. My recording of prehistoric sites is not new but it is rare: Ban Chiang in Udon Thani is the best example I've come across so far. It is no surprise that man-made structures have not survived in this region more than 1,500 years ago. With ancient sites definitely on my wish list I'm more than pleased to uncover this ancient town and the discoveries don't stop here.
Wat Phra Non....... The name of Wat Phra Non simply means that there exists a relining Buddha and there is one near the Ancient Town. It's described at being 2,000 years old but I take that date as meaning the location. The age of the Buddha image is likely to be much later. Scattered around this temple are more sema stones from the Dvaravati Period. Sema stones are ancient boundary markers. We are near a provincial boundary here and find ourselves back in Chaiyaphum.
Wat Chedi....... Wat Chedi, located in Khon San District, houses a large 700 year-old Buddha image in the attitude of subduing Mara and built of laterite. The style is similar to Khmer art and was built since the Sukhothai period. The width of the lap is 3 cubits, the height is 8 cubits. The distinctive feature is that the mouth of the image is red.
It's the eve of Songkran and there are festivities going on outside Wat Chedi and I'm confused about the purpose as no spaying of water is involved. There is a large gathering near the Luang Pi Chit Song Kram statue mostly of women I note. There is a contest in progress with an award for the winner. The crowd is mostly dressed in traditional costume and the contestants have to display a particular skill. Within a circle are coconut shell halves and from a platform contestants have to cast a net to cover as many of these as possible. I wish I had more time to find out how this custom originated but the skill of casting a net is a requirement for local fishermen. I guess where there is not much football, games like this are bound to evolve! With these few attractiona added we still haven't reached any on our original list but the next one.
Tham Khang Khao....... Tham Khang Khao (Bat Cave) is an attraction on the edge of Phu Pha Man National Park. At the entrance is a parking are with information supplied about the Bat Cave. The best time to see the bats is when they emerge at dusk but right now the area is practically deserted. Another reason for lack of interest is that the cave is closed anyway. Bats carry infectious diseases and there are concerns for those who enter the cave, so much so that there is a medic stationed on site. So what else is there in the area? Well, quite a lot in the park itself.
Phu Pha Man National Park....... Phu Pha Man translates as 'curtain cliff mountain' and that describes the cliff face on the southeastern edge of the park. In Phu Pha Man National Park there are more caves, waterfalls, although unattractive now in summer, rafting, lake huts, camping, viewpoints and more. We realise that to add anything more today means paying park fees to enjoy the facilities but that would take time. Arriving at a lake just to dip your toe in the water is not an ideal option. However, there is something more we can do before we leave Khon Kaen for Loei.
Stunning....... I have to admit the views in this district are stunning and considering that's what I've been looking for when searching for land, it's worth it to make some enquiries. There is a land plot here with title deeds so ticking a couple of boxes but a couple of boxes cannot be ticked. It is beyond my budget for one then there is work required to prepare the site. General location is another issue. Road access is not the best and the huge distance from anywhere we are familiar with is just too great. Ok it's time to get moving.
AU Place Hotel....... We arrive in Loei city well before dark and head straight to our pre-booked accommodation. I've again used Agoda but even with care this does not guarantee satisfaction as I have found out much too often. The rooms at AU Place Hotel looked promising and I paid a bit over my budget for a bit more comfort, so I'm really interested to know if the rooms here live up to expectations. The Hotel is on three levels with no lift. A minor point is that I should have asked for a room on the first floor but as for the room well, it's outstanding. The room is so spacious including a sofa. Everything is here for convenience and comfort and the decor including the shower room first-rate. A great feature is the balcony looking over onto a landscaped area. Here you can sit and sip a coffee in total peace. I think back to all the rooms we've used in the last couple of months and I can't think of a better one. Finally, there is one more benefit. The hotel is tucked away in an alley but it's a short walk if needed to the facilities on the main road to Chiang Khan. There remains just one more thing to do today and that's dinner and here's another positive.
We find ourselves quite near a local restaurant that is run by one of Katoon's aunts. It's the first step towards a family gathering this weekend and these folk are amazing hosts. Tomorrow more family members will arrive, and we already have something fixed up for the morning.
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