Day 22, Monday, 25th March - Maret, Koh Samui

Survival....... We've survived the night at Fewtor Resort and a full three weeks on this tour. Whatever happens next we will have broken the record of days spent away from base in Bangkok. Now that I'm in Koh Samui I'm sure I need to bend somewhat on my budget but there is a limited amount of time to make adjustments. The immediate problem is accommodation. and we're going to have to act fast today to secure something. The last thing I want is to be unsettled restricting the time we need to spend touring around the island.
Searching....... I have a list of possible resorts and intend to tick them off one by one hoping that I can get agreement from my partner. The list I have selected includes accommodation only in the Maret area. I don't particularly want to stay in busier Chaweng. The problem I have is that Maret is hilly with no space for modern apartment type buildings. We head out a bit earlier to make a start but even by setting the bar higher I can't make progress through lack of agreement. Finally, we seem to find a compromise and settle for Baan Lamai Resort, an older style resort but a big improvement on last night. Given that I've been struggling to find accommodation at a reasonable price I will accept 800 baht. The one advantage that Baan Lamai Resort has is its near the Lamai Market so easy to find food. The next job is to set up a visit list for today but as I check Google Map I happen to click on the locator for this resort. To my horror I see that the online booking site Agoda has this resort much cheaper and I feel cheated after some sweet-talking by the owner. To make matters worse I've booked for 3 night hoping to finally get settled on Koh Samui. Well, for the moment I just have to live with it and concentrate on what I've come here for. From Lamai I plan to work clockwise around the island and see how far I can get. Lamai lies at about 4 o'clock looking at a map. If I can make 9 o'clock I'll be doing well.
Katoon has set up a list on Google Map but as we progress, Nos A and B get left out. Some roads on Samui look too narrow for two cars to pass; they are better suited to motorbikes. The first attraction on our list is now at 6 o'clock.
South Coast.......
Wat Phra Chedi Laem So....... Wat Chedi Laem So is a temple where Luang Por Daeng Tisso used to live until his death from a passenger boat accident between Koh Samui and Bandon in 1976. Besides the chedi there is an Ubosot (ordination hall) in the shape of a junk boat. It is also the only coastal temple in Koh Samui with a refreshing atmosphere, shady with pine trees along the beach. Phra Chedi Laem So is an old temple and was established in 1898 and has was registered as a place of special interest on February 17, 2011.
Wat Khao Chedi....... Wat Khao Chedi, also known as the 'White Temple', is a mesmerising site that sits atop a hill, surrounded by verdant tropical vegetation in the southern hills. We ascend the winding path to the temple and are greeted to the breathtaking panorama of the shimmering Gulf of Thailand, the island’s vast coconut plantations, and the nearby islands.
The main features of this temple are the immaculate white painted stupa in Burmese style and the Phra Non (reclining Buddha) in front.
Thong Krut Pier....... Thong Krut Pier is the main pier for the well-known island of Ko Mat Sum (Pig Island). Trips to this island are popular and attract bragging rites but I have to turn the trip down. 2,000 baht is a bit steep. Others are interested in taking a boat but can't reach an agreement to share it. I still have time to add this trip later.
Time for lunch....... This area has an ample amount of exotic dining facilities on the shoreline, but we take lunch at a local restaurant nearby to keep the cost down noting that others are thinking the same way. On reflection though that is a mistake as I don't enjoy the meal at all
New French Kiss....... The New French Kiss is another restaurant and I find myself here just for the views. Perhaps this would have been a better place to eat.
Mangrove Forest....... The Mangrove Forest lies in a peninsular in Taling Ngam sub-district. It is relatively small but does have a concrete walkway through it. It is an area abundant with wildlife. In the short time I am here I see a squirrel, a species oh bird and brightly coloured crabs.
West Coast.......
P. Poonsawat Pier, Pangka Bay....... Pangka Bay is a secluded bay. Here there are speed boats and other craft to take you to the lesser known islands of the Mu Ko Ang Thong National Marine Park.
Suda Beach....... We now head north along the western coastline of Koh Samui towards the Raja Ferry Pier where we arrived yesterday. Suda Beach is just beyond. This is a quiet beach with a naval base on a headland to the west. From here there are good views of the rest of the western coastline.
Lipa Noi Beach....... Lipa Noi Beach is an extension of Suda Beach running north. This seems to be the most peaceful stretch of beach on the island.
Nathon Beach....... The Nathon Beach area houses the Seatran Ferry Port. Here there is a small town but still not at all busy. The vehicles that arrive here seem to disperse quite quickly. Few people seem to use the beach in this area. I note though that the Seatran vessels look modern and are obviously the more popular.
Laem Yai....... Laem Yai is the northwestern tip of the island. There is little here to see with few visitors and no activity.
North Coast.......
Bang Po Beach....... At Bang Po Beach you get the first signs of activity. This is the westernmost beach on the northern coast and there are resorts and beach huts appearing. Some people are bathing but it's a relatively quiet, long sandy beach.
Ban Tai Beach....... Ban Tai Beach is just a continuation of Bang Po Beach, still relatively quiet but with enough activity in my opinion.
Mae Nam Viewpoint....... Heading east is Mae Nam Viewpoint, a piece of land jutting out into the sea. There is no parking right on the sandy headland but a short walk affords lovely views of the rest of the northern coastline over to Bo Put.
Mae Nam Beach....... At Mae Nam Beach you get the first sense of the popularity of Koh SAMU. This beach is one of the favorites amongst tourists. There are hotels, restaurants and bars everywhere, There is no beach road but many busy alleys leading from the main road. Of course, it is not far from the airport here. Most tourists never venture too far from an airport I note but the way they just come and chill out is something I am envious of. With the traffic building up there is little time to add more today, just one more attraction should do it.
Wat Bo Phuttaram....... At Wat Bo Phuttaram there are some old buildings in southern style but the main feature of this temple is the large statue of Luang Pho Truad curiously built on a boat structure in the middle of a small pond. Luang Pho Truad (1582-1628) was a revered monk noted for his miracles and statues of him appear all over southern Thailand. He has already been featured in the pages of this tour.
Baan Lamai Resort....... It's now just a relatively short drive down to Lamai and I get my first taste of the traffic in the busy northeastern quarter of the island where Chaweng Beach is located. We head directly for the market area where we were last night. Contrary to my fears, we get good value for our food here. We retire to Baan Lamai Resort the subject of discontent brewing all day. For my part I can live with the price of the room here but my partner just doesn't like the location or resort style. Give her a modern apartment in a city, and she's perfectly happy but that type of accommodation at a reasonable price is hard to find on Samui. As things stand she it planning to get a refund to at least change accommodation for the last night here. Well, good luck with that, I'm not getting involved. My thoughts are on how the day went.
Ko Samui at its longest point is just 25 km wide. Used to traveling in the wide open spaces on the mainland, this is claustrophobic for me. The fuel we used today is hardly significant and it shouldn't have been a surprise that we managed to get around the whole island except for Bo Put in the northeast. With my 9 o'clock prediction way off the mark, that makes things easier to plan the remaining two days here.
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