Day 18, Thursday, 21st March - Hat Yai

Bad News....... I have to say the best thing about the stay at Sitit Grand View Hotel is not the view but the buffet breakfast which provides more than one can eat. It will set us up for the day whatever happens. The only certainty is that we will be in Hat Yai tonight. We are packed and ready to head for the border checkpoint.
On arrival at Thai immigration I'm hoping that I can do a visa run i.e. leave and re-enter Thailand giving me the 30 extra days stay in the country that I need. I check at the immigration office and there is bad news. While there is no problem on the Thai side, in Malaysia I would have to stay at least one night in the country. This news throws a basketful of eggs in the air. I do have six days to play with and there are a number of options, so I can't immediately decide which is the best. Knowing that whatever happens I need to be in Hat Yai this evening I will mull things over and make the call later. That at least leaves the day free to add more attractions to my long list on this tour. The most obvious attraction is the one that was missed yesterday. It will be for the third time of asking.
Khao Nam Khang Historic Tunnel....... Khao Nam Khang Historic Tunnel is located in the area of Khao Nam Khang, Tambon Khlong Kwang, Na Thaw. In the past, this area was a communist village. Tunnels were built in the mountains to provide housing and shelter, but after almost 40 years of fighting with the government, the Communist Party declared an end to the fighting and joined as a co-developer of the Thai nation in 1987. The Tunnel is made of clay and is the largest and longest tunnel in Thailand. Excavated by 200 labourers, it took about 2 years to complete. The interior is divided into three channels three levels deep. There are 16 entrances-exits with a staircase connecting each level. The winding passageways run for about 1 kilometre. The interior of the tunnel is divided into rooms, e.g., meeting room, hospital, radio room, kitchen, shooting-range, etc. The museum here contains a good selection of lethal and non lethal exhibits as well as photos and documents that help tell the story of the Malay Communist Party and the occupation of this isolated village. There are also herbal medicines for sale here. The admission fee is 100 Baht.
This is the forth such site I've visited near the Thai/Malay border and I'm still piecing together the history. The period from the party's formation in 1930 to the end of British occupation is well documented but I'm still lacking information about nearly forty years since then. The Communists seemed well-organised but how they hold out for so long in this inhospitable area, I don't know. The ideology was strong but to what end is the key question. It's clear they were attacked by government forces which probably weakened their resolve. When the party was disbanded in 1987, many of the fighters integrated into Thai society while others chose to head across the border into Malaysia.
I hadn't planned a day of site visits but there is one other attraction that seems to be worth a look about 15 minutes drive away.
We proceed west, first stopping at the Khlong Sadao Reservoir to take photos. We then continue, crossing the regional HWY 4 and head into the mountains once more. The indication that we are close to the next attraction comes in the form of a view of the impressive Khao Rup Chang which was given its name owing to its shape resembling an elephant.
Wat Tham Khao Rup Chang....... Wat Khao Rup Chang translates as 'temple of the mountain shaped like an elephant' (they use 'Rup Chang' which is literally the photo of a elephant). This is the second temple with this name I've come across, the other being in Phichit Province, but the reason for the name is the same. In the background there is a tall mountain which are roughly shaped like an elephant.
Wat Tham Khao Rup Chang is a Chinese temple and a sight to behold. This Buddhist temple is not just a place of worship, but also has a cave that houses a Guan Yin Statue and numerous other deities. The temple's unique location, with a river flowing beneath the cave ecosystem, adds to its charm and allure. The cave itself is large with every passageway adorned with statues beautifully illuminated with coloured lights. Returning the way we came another attraction is worth a visit.
Ban Na Tham....... Ban Na Tham is a community development centre, a centre for producing batiks. Fabrics are painted and dyed using only locally available colours especially from banana plants. The fabric is turned into a variety of garments which are well sought after. This cottage industry was set up by the Tourist Authority of Thailand under the patronage of Princess Sirindhorn who visited here.
It's time to head for Hat Yai and try and develop a plan with includes my securing and extra 30 days in Thailand. Once in the city despite skipping lunch, I'm not in the mood for an exotic sit-down meal. I just want something to take back to the room, so I can set about planning the next step. That fixed, we head for our accommodation, well it isn't ours yet.
The Ring Hotel....... The Ring Hotel is not a hotel. At check-in, I produce the booking details and disaster. Yesterday evening the were many accommodation choices and I couldn't decide with my partner feeding me with various options. I had too many web pages open and in the confusion entered the wrong arrival date. We should have arrived yesterday which is ironic since we completely wasted our time at Dannok. So now I get hit twice in one day now having to pay twice for one night here. To make matters worse we don't take the opportunity to check out the room which is not acceptable as far as I'm concerned. You park underneath the room and have to climb awkward stairs up to the room above. The room we are given has been smoked in despite smoking being banned, so we need to change. The bathroom has a jacuzzi but all the twisting of knobs doesn't give me a shower. The location is also an issue. You can't just walk out into the street and buy something and oh yes, there's no breakfast. This is an apartment not a hotel. I'm not full of the joys of spring right now.
Tomorrow we must make progress and head north. To give me the best option time-wise, I have to get my extra 30 days stay in Thailand at the Hat Yai Immigration. Let's hope this works for the better all round.
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