Day 8, Monday, 11th March - Narathiwat

Imperial Breakfast....... Today we are ready to explore this furthest province from Bangkok but first let's see what breakfast looks like. We arrive in a large dining hall in which we appear to be lost. This hotel was hardly full overnight, and we can choose a seat anywhere. I understand that they put on a buffet breakfast here but today there is a change of plan with the hotel so quiet. Instead, there is table service and I will go for the American Breakfast which proves most satisfying. Overall if you don't mind a bit of nostalgia here the value for money is quite good but we are leaving. We have a list of attractions to visit today but since we haven't booked overnight accommodation this has to be fixed first as we go for the walk-in option.
Nara Pattra Hotel....... It's Katoon's call regarding accommodation tonight as she searches around for something more to her liking. Armed with a list we arrive at Nara Pattra Hotel which is a little out of town on Road 4055 heading south but is not listed on Google Map. We are shown the rooms and I can throw away that list. The rooms are clean and modern and at 500 baht/night and meal service available if we want it there is no hesitation and without forward planning we book for two nights. We will move in later. Now let's turn to the visit list.
Ban Thon Beach....... Ban Thon Beach lies to the west of Narathiwat City beyond the airport. There is a small Muslim community here, some shops, a pavilion and viewpoint. The beach is not particularly attractive, the strong tide washing plenty of debris up onto the beach. After the pace we've set in the last week though, I'm happy to sit in the pavilion while Katoon goes shopping in the nearby OTOP Centre. When she's satisfied I take a look around for photo opportunities and soon find one. A pickup truck pulls up nearby and I'm surprised to see soldiers climb out of the vehicle, well, marines actually from Sattahip. It's interesting to chat with them and get some photos taken together. At the end of the day, despite the tensions, humans live and work here. Let's keep things natural from here.
Dudo-Su-Ngai Padi National Park....... Dudo-Su-Ngai Padi National Park is a national park in Bacho District. It is part of Sankala Khiri mountain range, the southernmost sub range of the Tenasserim Hills. The area was a haven for guerrillas and few people ventured in to see the natural jungle environment here. However, when the situation improved in 1974, the Royal Forest Department established Pajo Waterfall Park that became Budo–Su-ngai Padi National Park.
Pajo Waterfall....... Pajo Waterfall is the main attraction in the park and lies near the park entrance. On this occasion I am able to make it to the base of the falls and witness more water flowing over it than I expected. At Pajo Waterfall there are 9 levels leading up to the source. It is considered the largest waterfall in the province and one of the most beautiful in the south.
Tharntadd Royal Pavilion....... Tharntadd Royal Pavilion is located on a mound above Pajo Waterfall. The pavilion was a place where King Rama VII stayed for lunch in 1928 and left his cipher there. It's time for some more history.
The 300 Year Old Mosque (Wadil-Husen Mosque)....... The 300 Years Mosque also known as Al-Hussein Mosque or Talo Mano Mosque is one of the oldest mosques in Thailand. Located in Bacho District, it is in use today by the large Muslim community in the area. The mosque was built in 1634 to serve the newly settled Muslim community during that time. It is the oldest wooden mosque in Thailand.
For the second time today I find myself in conversation, this time with local disciples of this mosque. Whatever these people think of me on the inside they certainly don't show it on the outside and I can't but admire their inquisitive and friendly nature. Surely this is how it should be everywhere. Fear is an emotion that complicates everything in life. We now need to head back into the city.
Commemoration Royal Pavilion....... The Commemoration Royal Pavilion lies near the estuary of the Bang Nara River. This pavilion was used during the Narathiwat Annual Fair by His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej and Her Majesty Queen Sirikit and members of the Royal Family on occasion of the boat races here. It's time to explore the rest of the coastline as far as the Malaysian border.
Wat Chon Thara Singhe....... Wat Chon Thara Singhe or Wat Phithak Phaen Din Thai is an old royal temple located in Chehe Sub-district, Tak Bai District. The temple was built at the end of King Rama IV's reign when Tak Bai was still a part of Kelantan in Malaysia. This temple is historically important because it is a historical site featured in arrangements over the division of land between Siam and Malaya (then a colony of the United Kingdom) during the reign of King Rama V in 1909 marking the area as remaining in Thailand. As a result, the temple is called Wat Phithak Phaen Din Thai, translated as 'temple that protects Thai sovereignty'. Wat Chon Thara Singhe has many Buddhist buildings in Southern Thai style.
Riverside Pavilion....... The geography of Tak Bai District reveals a long sand bar known as Koh Yao that runs parallel to the coast while the area behind this sandy beach consists mainly of mangrove. The pavilion is simply a viewpoint looking across the Tak Bai River to Koh Yao.
Saphan Koh Yao....... Saphan Koh Yao is the only land crossing point consisting of a wooden bridge. Although substantial it can only be used for motorbikes. At this point I can throw my hands in the air. I've now traveled the entire mainland coastline in Thailand.
Wat Phraput....... I've selected Ban Phraput as our next stop despite objection from my partner. Fortunately my hunch is right and there is an amazing old wooden prayer hall here built at a time when steel and concrete were materials of the future. The building style is distinctly Southern with a mondrop and other buildings unique in their design. It's remarkable to think that these buildings are the product of imagination by a previous abbot using local craftsman. No two buildings are the same.
There is one more site that I need to check out described as an ancient site but the GPS leads us into the forest to goodness knows where and I decide to abandon the idea. It's not long before dusk but there looks like sufficient time to double back and give my partner her way.
Bang Nara River (Thai/Malay Border)....... We enter the border town of Tak Bai once more, this time to take a better look at the Bang Nara River Estuary. This river, of course forms the border between Thailand and Malaysia. On the Thai side here there is a promenade with restaurants and mobile food sellers. Light is beginning to fade and I'm up for taking dinner here but Katoon is satisfied with this detour, her curiosity ended. However, it's a 40-minute drive back to Narathiwat so it's something much more basic tonight for dinner.
Next Page.