Day 5, Friday, 8th March - Pattani

End of Season....... It's been a good night at Pattawia Resort, the most notable feature being the comfortable bed. Yes, it's not modern as you would expect from newly built apartment blocks but these are not always sensibly designed. Here at this resort is a wooden table for my computer and a coffee table and chairs. Nothing needs rearranging and the room is as practical as it could be. There is no breakfast included of course, but we are well-prepared for that. As regards the day's activity I can start with a blank sheet and am soon busy preparing a list. Logically we should start with those attractions in and around the city but Katoon has other ideas and wants to go temple hunting. That means that the area we start with today is to the west, back towards the border with Songkhla Province.
Wat Chang Hai Railway Station....... Wat Chiang Hai Railway Station is located in Khok Pho District and becomes the furthest station from Bangkok I've visited. It lies on the Southern Line between Hat Yai and the Malaysian border and located close to the temple Katoon has come here for but I naturally want to visit the station first. It's a good decision as shortly after I arrive, a mail train races through the station on the way to Sungai-Kolok. Now let's see what the nearby temple is all about.
Wat Chang Hai Ratburanuram....... Wat Chang Hai is an ancient Temple dating back of over 400 years. One of the notable features of the temple is the presence of a statue of Luang Pu Thuad (1582-1628), which is enshrined inside. Luang Pu Thuad was a highly revered monk known for his compassion and profound knowledge of scripture, and who served as a former abbot of Wat Chang Hai and started his monk hood here. Luang Pu Thuad died in Saiburi, Malaysia and the story has is that at a time of no roads, his body was carried to this temple by an elephant hence the name of this temple; elephant is 'chang' in Thai.
Back at the station another service is due but first a Rapid train races through the station heading for the border while in the opposite direction, a Local train arrives to collect a handful of passengers making my visit here most worthwhile. Also there are armed guards posted at this station. With this activity over there is another attraction not far away.
Saikhao Waterfall....... Saikhao Waterfall lies inside Namtok Sai Khao National Park and of course there is an entrance fee. This I believe is 200 baht but Katoon asks for a concession due to my age, so I pay just half of that. The issue I have here is access and it's not clear how far from the car park the main waterfall is but I have to go for it having paid for the privilege. However, it's to no avail. I just cannot clamber over the rocky path. In addition, the month of Ramadan is near which means the area is busy today with visitors. It's not the result I was hoping for.
Wat Sai Khao....... Wat Sai Khao is an old temple and a former abbot was a student of Luang Pu Thuad. During that time, the abbot consecrated the Takrud amulet. This is most valuable and very collectible.
Pattani Railway Station........It wasn't planned, but we find ourselves close to Pattani Railway Station, so called but not at all close to the city some 26 kms away. Here I can wait for a Local service arriving at this station and add a video to my collection.
Wat Makrut....... Near the station I stumble upon Wat Makrut. The temple itself is unremarkable but it does have an interesting Dharmachakra (wheel of law) which is the single most important symbol of Buddhism, denoting the Buddha’s First Sermon. From here we return east with a one more attraction that seems interesting.
Yarang Ancient City....... Arriving at Yarang Ancient City is music to my ears. Yarang is one of the largest early historical communities in southern Thailand. It is believed to be the location of an ancient kingdom named 'Langkasuka' or 'Langya Siao' as evidence appears in Chinese, Javanese, Malay and Arabic documents. The characteristics of the ancient city of Yarang suggest a large oval city plan covering approximately 9 square kilometres.
The first thing you notice here is a ruin uncovered by archaeologists, now part of the visitor centre.
Yarang Ancient Town consists of three ancient towns interconnected. We have arrived at Ban Cha-le Ancient Town where unannounced we meet a Ancient Yarang Town Exploring Project member who is happy to show us around. At the main ruin, work seems to be complete for the moment but there are two more sites with one complete, Ban Cha-le Site No. 8, and another currently being surveyed. It's great to be able to see an archaeological project being worked on for real without watching Time Team.
A second town is Ban Wat, Site No. 9, is just a short drive to the south. This site seems to have been uncovered some time ago as the surrounding boards are rotten.
Finally, there is Ban Prawae where no archaeological work has been conducted yet being completely overgrown in the forest.
Clearly there is a lot more work to do and a lot more to learn about this ancient civilization that dates back 2,000 years. If the assumptions are correct then this site is the oldest settlement with permanent structures that I've found in Thailand. WOW!
Somdet Phra Sinagarin Pattani Park....... We now head back to the city where we are hoping to find a skywalk. The skywalk is part of the Somdet Phra Sinagarin Pattani Park. However the gates to the skywalk are locked and I'm thinking this is because it's after 5.00 pm. The Park itself is an excellent landscaped area, a nice place for jogging and see sunset or sunrise with family. The park is one of numerous parks created under the patronage of the late Princess Sinagarindra.
Rusamilae Beach....... Rusamilae Beach is hardly a beach, really a open area jutting out into the ocean, a concreted area where people come to enjoy the sunset. It's close to the Somdet Phra Sinagarin Pattani Park and the city itself.
Finally, we find our way back to the resort passing along the edge of the Pattani River in view f the fishing port. The day has been most productive for our first day in this province. There is nothing exotic about dinner tonight as we search around in the city and end up in a Muslim cafe. Where the romanticism in this part of the world is I don't know.
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