Day 12, 20th February - Ki Lek, Phrao

OK at Ruan Raya....... We arrived in Mae Taeng District knowing that this is a popular tourist area close to Chiang Mai and we chose to stay in the town rather than base ourselves in the city. Ruan Raya has proved comfortable enough and we were able to park the car right outside the apartment. If I have to be choosy then I would say the bathroom needs some TLC and a little more thought put into into its design. We now have the choice as to whether to stay an extra night in Mae Teang but undecided, we do what we normally do: Up sticks and see how it goes. The question now is how do we cover the attractions in this district.
Mae Taeng....... Mae Taeng is mountainous to the east and west but it's to the west where most of the attractions occupy numerous small roads that lead into the mountains. The area is best known for its activities and attractions such as elephant riding, rafting, canoeing, ATVs ox cart, Long Neks and more. The attractions in the valley are privately owned, each one competing for business. The best known area to explore is Elephant Eco Valley where we head for first. Heading up the valley it's not long before we start locating the attractions noting their location before we reach the main attraction.
Maetaeng Elephant Park & Clinic....... My feelings on visiting elephant sanctuaries are mixed but as I'm already in the area I have to come and review the setup here and do my best to report only what I see. The first thing I notice when I arrive at the Maetaeng Elephant Park & Clinic is that the car park is crammed with vehicles. Visitors flock here from Chiang Mai in busses, mini vans and any other form of transport that's available. It's big business. It seems you haven't been to Chiang Mai without visting an elephant sanctuary but the experience doesn't come cheap. For us it's totally the reverse; the fuel we will use his negligible. In addition we have no compulsion to pay for any of the attractions. These attractions you pay for separately at the main ticket office. That means I can wander around the elephant sanctuary taking photographs without paying a penny.
For others they pay a lot. For example the elephant ride is 1,500 baht for a couple. Leaving the kral, elephants walk into the water, head down stream and climb into the forest on the opposite bank before returning across the stream. The ride takes about 20 minutes. I won't comment as to whether I feel this is value for money but there is another reason this sanctuary exists. With the photo shoot over I head over to the elephant clinic where there ae a number of sick animals. This clinic was set up in 2006 to avoid transporting the animals a long distance for treatment in Lampang. It's now fully functional with vets on site and trained mahouts who can take care of their animals. What extras there are here include purchasing bananas and sugar cane to feed the elephants and I'm happy too pay the 100 baht to feed sick animals.
Finally you can take a truck to the Long Neck village. I've never known these be free for foreigners but at least there is no discrimination here. Everyone pays the 300 baht. In the UK There is no discrimination either; everyone pays for illegal immigrants crossing the channel from France except tourists right?
Other Attractions....... I think I'm done here at this attraction so let's see what else is there in the valley. We would like to go further into the mountains but find our progress checked at a dirt road that our vehicle can't handle. We therefore lose the opportuniny to visit the Huay Kup Kap Village. From here the road continues where there is a viewpoint but no other attractions so we will be heading back.
I now begin to realise how importance the Mae Taeng Stream is to the tourist industry here; almost all activity relates on it. We stop to make enquiries where they rent out ATVs. You need to join a group though. I guess you could easily get lost in the jungle and taking of jungles we need some lunch.
Jungle De Cafe....... To reach Jungle De Cafe you need to cross a bridge over the Mae Taeng. The restaurant here offers all kinds of seating arrangements including cushions and pillows that compell you to chill out overlooking the stream. Passing by, another form of water transport is visible as canoes are paddled downstream, their occupants enjoying the views hemmed in by the jungle.
More Attractions....... As we make our way back we note more elephant parks, rafting and Long Neck Villages. I can well understand why tourists want to come here; the choice of attractions seem almost endless. We pass one of the elephant parks which has been beautifully laid out with attractive gardens, attractive enough for them to put bamboo fencing along the roadside to prevent people stopping and taking photographs. Hmmmmh! While it's impossible for me to review every attraction here, I've seen enough to get a good feel of this magical valley which is an important addition to my tours list for Chiang Mai Province. We now head back into town and out in the direction we headed late yesterday.
Wat Aranyawiwek....... Wat Aranyawiwek lies in a secluded teak wood forest. It's a monastery (wat) in the Thai Forest Tradition of the Theravada lineage of Buddhism. Phra Ajahn Plien Panyapatipo is the current abbot of Wat Aranyawiwek, where he has resided since 1966. Wat Aranyawiwek was established and named by Luang Pho Mun Bhuridatta, the 'father' of the current tradition of forest meditation monastics. The design of the meditation hall is traditional Lanna.
Curiously this hall is closed on my visit which is a pity.
Now with options still open I'm going to head for another district and on the way there's an important natural feature.
Srilanna National Park....... Si Lanna National Park is the eighth largest National Park in Thailand, covering an area of 1,406 square metres which is home to wildlife animals, lush forests, and headwater sources. The park covers a mountainous area of 260,800 acres in Phrao, Mae Taeng, and Chiang Dao districts. While this park has a multitude of natural attractions there's just one I can cover today.
Mae Ngat Somboon Chon....... The Mae Ngat Somboon Chon Dam is a multi-purpose hydroelectric dam in Mae Taeng District. It impounds the Mae Ngat River, a tributary of the Ping River. The dam is located at the western side of Sri Lanna National Park. Reaching the reservoir I'm impressed by the layout designed for recreation. A small area of the reservoir has been set aside for pleasure boats while more substantial craft ply to and from resorts on the lake shore inaccessable by any other form of transport. A tour of the lake will cost 600 baht for the round trip. This looks tempting but my partner is not impressed in what's turning out to be quite a hot day. The park fee here is 300 baht, a bit steep just to take photos. We now enter Phrao District.
Wat Phrathat Doi Wiang Chai Mongkol....... The indications are that Wat Phrathat Doi Wiang Chai Mongkol was an important site in the 14th Century and had existed before Chiang Mai was establised. It seems to have served as a fortress, an outpost for a Lanna Army and had a wall protecting it. It was only recently that the site was developed into a working temple.
White Grandfather Memorial Hall Analyo....... This memorial, located in a beautifully maintained garden is dominated by a large white statue of Luang Pho Analyo. This monk from Ubon Ratchathani wandered and preached in Isan and Thailand's north and is remembered here for his wisdoms.
PK Hotel....... Although we haven't booked accommodation we are aware that we can just walk in at PK Hotel. Phrao just doesn't feature on the radar for tourism. The hotel is some way from the town but does have a 7-Eleven right out front and a few mobile vendors. The rooms are pleasant enough and cheap at 500 baht. The only disadvantage is the climb up to the first floor. Today has been quite hot and energy sapping and as we settle in things don't seem quite right with me. I'm completely off my food. Suspecting heat stroke I take in plenty of fluids but there is no improvement and I fear it will be an uncomfortable night.
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