Day 6, 14th February - Chiang Rai

Special Day....... We Woke up this morning with no side effects from our stay in B2 Hotel but thankfully we won't need their services anymore. From a slow start the amount of attractions we're visiting are steadily increasing and it's taking more time to write up my blog. Accordingly, it's not an early start this morning: 10.30am is the best we can do despite self-catering in the room. Now with accommodation secured tonight we can afford to be a bit flexible today but it's still not clear what the plan is since we've covered a lot of attractions in Chiang Rai province in the past. However, there is one that's a must see an hour or so away, and we can build a tour around it and in the process try to make it special since today of course is Valentine's Day.
Our route takes us north along HWY 1 towards Mae Sai District which is the most northerly district in Thailand. We've already visited attractions in this district but our list is never complete. Our first visit of the day is to a location we recently added.
Vetiver Grass Development Centre....... The Vetiver Grass Development Centre (Doi Tung Development Project) is located in Huai Khrai, Mae Sai District. It sounds a mouthful but this project is all about mitigating natural disasters. Soil erosion during the rains is a major problem in Thailand causing landslide hazards and destroying crops. One solution is to plant vetiver grass. This helps bind the soil together and significantly reduces the chance of soil erosion. Here at Huai Khrai at the foot of the Doi Tung range the centre seeks to understand how the grass helps in preventing erosion to develop a strategy of mitigation. The centre certainly has an important role going forward. Returning to HWY 1 we continue north until we find the turning to that 'must visit' attraction, a location that became famous in 2018 for all the wrong reasons.
Tham Luang Nang Non....... Much has been written about the event in June and July 2018 when a junior association football team was rescued from Tham Luang Nang Non, a cave system at Pong Pha. Twelve members of the team, aged 11 to 16, and their 25-year-old assistant coach entered the cave on 23 June after a practice session. Shortly after they entered, heavy rainfall began and partially flooded the cave system, blocking their way out and trapping them deep within. It took an international effort from experienced divers and support staff to rescue the boys and their coach who had been trapped in the cave until they were rescued between the 8th and 10th of July. It seemed a miracle that the boys and their coach survived owing to the increasing danger caused by continuous rain in the area. Sadly Saman Kunan, a 37-year-old former Royal Thai Navy Seal, died of asphyxiation during an attempted rescue on 6 July while returning to a staging base in the cave after delivering diving cylinders to the trapped group.
The rescue effort involved as many as 10,000 people, including more than 100 divers, scores of rescue workers, representatives from about 100 governmental agencies, 900 police officers and 2,000 soldiers. Ten police helicopters, seven ambulances, more than 700 diving cylinders and the pumping of more than one billion litres of water from the caves were required.
A movie about the Tham Luang cave rescue was produced in 2022. Thirteen Lives is an American biographical survival film, based on the rescue, directed and produced by Ron Howard and written by William Nicholson. The film stars Viggo Mortensen, Colin Farrell, Joel Edgerton, and Tom Bateman.
Having seen this film I can relate it to what I see here and in fact it all becomes more vivid as you look up at the towering mountains all around and realise the shear size of this cave. It certainly is a humbling experience to be here and to appreciate the effort that was put into the rescue: The rescued had been found more than 2,300 metres from the cave entrance.
Obviously I had no idea what to expect on arriving here in particular how have they manage the visitors who wish to come here either on pilgrimage or out of curiosity. Well, to cater for these visitors they have certainly organized things with an electric vehicle providing free transport up to the cave entrance from the car park. Some equipment is on display and information such as photographs, diagrams and press cuttings is available nearby. Unfortunately though it is only in Thai.
It is surprising just how easy access is to the cave complex is; you can drive to within a few hundred metres of the entrance. The electric vehicle is free but for those arriving without a vehicle, trucks are available to get around. This helps the local economy.
Besides the visit to the cave there is another option that takes you to a site that has been developed since the rescue operation.
Tham Sai Tong....... Before the rescue operation there existed a small basin called Khun Nam Nang Non but an entrance to Tham Sai Tong was opened to pump water out of Tham Luang for the search and rescue operation. As a result the pond became larger and deeper about 4 metres deep. When the water in the cave flows out the water containing limestone and other minerals reacts to turn the water emerald green. The water is not turbid but clear and pure creating an emerald pool.
Mae Sai....... We now continue along HWY 1 to the end of the road at Mae Sai and the border crossing into Myanmar. Since we were here last, a spectacular new attraction has been added at a nearby temple.
Wat Phra That Doi Wao....... Wat Phra That Doi Wao is located on a mountain on the bank of the Mae Sai River, Mae Sai subdistrict. According to history, Phrachao Wao, ruler of Naga Phan Yonok built this temple to contain one of the Buddha’s hair relics in 179 BCE. This is the oldest relic after Phra Borommathat Doi Tung. At Wat Phrathat Doi Wao there is the monument of King Naresuan the Great. There is also a viewpoint, where visitors can see both the Thai and Burmese sides of the border. On 9 November 2023 a spectacular new skywalk was opened here to further enhance the views.
We arrive here on an appropriate day, although St Valentine, the 3rd century Roman Saint could hardly be more disconnected with Thailand's northern Saints. This does not prevent this temple taking advantage of people's sentiment though. Huge crowds are in attendance today with an invitation to receive a blessing and good luck for this life and the next provided on an industrial scale. The glitz and glamour concentrated on the colour purple creates a festive almost frenzied atmosphere. The temple's treasurer will be happy tonight pondering what else he can add to the display in future to attract even more worshipers.
For me the skywalk isn't happening due to acrophobia but for many others they are happy to pay the 50 baht. It's time to head into the mountains.
Pha Hi Village Viewpoint....... From Mae Sai the minor road 1149 ascends steeply towards Doi Tung on the border with Myanmar afording outstanding views as the road straddles the ridge. At some elevation the air is cool and there is the sweet scent of pine leaves at Pha Mi. We're heading for Pha Hi a remote village perched precariously on the mountainside. The settlement here has been boosted by tourism but it would not have existed but for the production of coffee beans which can be cultivated at this altitude. Coffee beans are dried wherever there is space and of course provides amazing fresh coffee for visitors and for distribution elsewhere. Surely it would be an injustice if we did not stop here, just slow things down a bit and enjoy the views over a fresh coffee. I even purchase some coffee beans to take back home.
We continue along the border and soon arrive in an area we are familiar with. Several attractions are located here and there is no need for repeat visits but one attraction provides a welcome revisit especially as the sun is low in the west.
Wat Phrathat Doi Tung....... Wat Phrathat Doi Tung was built in the 10th century with two subsequent restorations in the 13th century by King Mengrai of Chiang Rai and in the 20th century by the revered monk Khru Ba Siwichai. One of the twin Lanna-style chedis is believed to contain the left collarbone of Lord Buddha.
We last visited this temple on Christmas Eve 2016. Now in late afternoon the temple with its golden chedis gleam brightly reflecting the sun's rays. It's a chance to take some dazzling photos.
Just to mention there is another temple at the road junction leading to the phrathat called Wat Phrathat Doi Tung Noi but it is unremarkable.
Bandu Resort....... We continue our decent and rejoin HWY 1 heading back to Chiang Rai. It will be almost dark as we arrive. I'm curious to know how my online booking at Bandu Resort works out. We arrive at the resort which is located 15 minutes north of the city. The area is neither in the urban sprawl or remote. It's a great compromise with restaurants within walking distance. Now when we check in it becomes clear why there was such a discrepancy in the price quoted on the telephone and that on one of the booking sites. While we've secured accommodation there is no breakfast included. I'm assuming here that the price given over the phone was inclusive of breakfast. At reception, I'm giving the option to add breakfast and gladly take it given that it's buffet style. Without checking into our room we can walk to look for dinner ending up at a European restaurant which at least offers something different. Suitably refreshed, we head back to check out the room and WOW, what a room it is, spacious, modern with the latest high tech gadgets including WiFi charging and lighting. Even the toilet is the bidet style I've only seen at shopping malls before. However, that breakfast I ordered will not happen as it appears that the receptionist made a mistake in the pricing. Adding it on will take the cost higher than the original price we were quoted on the phone but as we were not expecting breakfast anyway the room is still amazing value.
With another incredible tour completed today I have a lot to record and analyse, so I will be busy both this evening and in the morning. With regard to tomorrow's activities of course it includes that football game we came here for but there should be plenty more to see in and around the city as well that has so far alluded us.
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