Day 5, 13th February - Chiang Rai

Breakfast Trumps Everything....... I've had no issues at At the Train Hotel although my partner has had some discomfort. The proximity to the railway station has been a real bonus for me and I would seriously consider staying an extra night. The one issue is that we have spent time exploring the city on previous visits and I can't justify another full day here. As I wake this morning I feel I should go across to the station once more. There has been activity here since before dawn but maybe I'm thinking about that buffet breakfast. Well, I need to think no more as we head down to the dining room. It's not often I get a chance for a full buffet breakfast, and they can be disappointing but full praise to the management here. They sure don't want you to leave on n empty stomach offering a mixture of Thai and Western style food. This will definitely set us up for the day. Now let's take that walk across to the train station.
Back on Track....... At the train station I know I've missed the best of the morning activity. When I arrive the last overnight service from Bangkok is already at the platform with the locomotive detached. Fortunately, I still have the opportunity to make a video. There is one service about to depart and that's the ordinary train to Nakhon Sawan. However it's a diesel multiple unit and I decide not to wait for its departure.
We can depart Chiang Mai but there are two temples that Katoon has identified in the city which have been overlooked.
Wat Khet Karam....... According to Wikipedia, Wat Ket Karam was built in 1428 during the Phra Jao Sam Fang Kaen era. Around the temple there is the Ket Kaew Chura Manee pagoda which is worshiped by the community and an old market of the Chinese community.
The temple is situated along the Ping River and houses a museum that exhibits antiques and old photos, providing a glimpse into the history of Chiang Mai. The temple is located at Ban Wat Ket and covers an area of approximately 10,000 m².
The temple’s chedi or pagoda, called Wat Phra That Ket Jula Manee, contains a relic of the Buddha. The design of the pagoda reflects Burmese influence, as it was restored under the reign of King Nawratha Minsaw, who was the son of the Burmese King Bayinnaung.
The viharn (assembly hall) of Wat Ket Karam is also notable for its unique, five-tiered roof design. The temple and its surrounding area have a rich and interesting history, making it a significant landmark in Chiang Mai.
Lanna temples in general are remarkably attractive both internally and externally. They consist of a multi tiered roofs and richly decorated gables. The internal structure typically consists of huge teak pillars supporting the roof.
Wat Lok Moli....... We arrive at the north side of the north moat surrounding the old part of the city, about 400 metres west of the Chang Phuak city gate. According to Wikipedia it is not known when the temple was built but it is first mentioned in a charter in 1367. The sixth king of the Mangrai dynasty, King Kuena (1355-1385), invited ten Buddhist monks from Burma to spread their teachings on Theravada Buddhism. The monks were housed in this temple.
In 1527, King Ket (also known as Mueangketklao or Phra Kaew Muang) commissioned the chedi and in 1545, he also had the viharn (assembly hall) built.
The viharn is strikingly beautiful with its tiered roof and attractive gable. This is a popular attraction for the many foreign visitors who come to Chiang Mai.
Wat Rajamontean....... Wat Rajamontean lies opposite Wat Lok Moli at the south side of the north moat of the old city. This temple has been renovation in Lanna art style with a tiered roof and decorated eaves. The viharn (main hall) has two floors with a door of the main hall opened from the side. Windows are on one side of the viharn, which is not symmetrical. The structure consists of teak wood. From the viharn you can directly reach the outdoor platform which has railings and pillars in the shape of small towers with many decorated statues. A large Buddha statue is located beside the viharn.
With possibilities seemingly exhausted in Chiang Mai we head north towards Chiang Rai and look for lunch.
Volcanic Stone Thawee Sin....... On the edge of Khun Chae National Park on HWY 118 is a rest stop with wonderful views. Here there is a restaurant and souvenir shops. A small hot spring emerges from the volcanic rock which is part of the geology here. It seems from here we will be heading into Chiang Rai but I'm on the lookout for attractions that fill gaps along the way and there seems to be no shortage in this mountainous region.
Doi Ngu Reservoir....... Doi Ngu Water Reservoir is located in Mae Chedi, Wiang Pa Pao District of Chiang Rai. The diversion of about 20 minutes leads us to the reservoir which is modest in comparison to many and the dam is unattractive at this time of year but provides a welcome alternative to temple visits. However, more temples are advertised in this area and I have time to add one more.
Wat Phra That Mae Chedi....... On the face of it there doesn't seem to be anything remarkable about Wat Phra That Mae Chedi. The chedi is small but does have some age. The main attraction seems to be the gorgeous views but then I see a sign to a museum and I'm in for a shock.
The museum houses a vast quantity of antique religious artifacts from votive tables and amulets to Buddhist statues from various periods and construction. Entering this establishment is like entering Alladin's cave. There's so much here to stimulate the senses. I find myself asking 'what is wealth?' and one description is 'it is things of beauty the capture the imagination'. The museum fits that description perfectly.
The museum was established by Phra Kru Phaiboon Phatthanaphirak (Thawan Parak-kamo) who put together this amazing collection from three main sources.
Kru Wat Noi hidden treasure...... The late Phra Kru Phaiboon uncovered a repository of amulets and other items stored in an earthen jar at Kru Wat Noi thought to have been brought from India. Among the items were gold Buddha images and breast chains.
Buddha images brought from Bangkok...... The source of images are Phra Wang Na, Phra Somdet Kru Wat Indharawihan and others. Important items were collected by a wealthy Chinese merchant between 1917 and 1937. Leaving no heirs the merchant bequeathed his collection to an ancestor of Phra Kru Phaiboon so was handed down through generations.
Amulets and other antiques donated by people from their private collections having faith in Phra Kru Phaiboon...... A substantial collection was donated by Chao Kaeo Naowarat after she learnt that Phra Kru Phaiboon intended to build the largest bronze image of Kru Ba Sriwichai (Saint of Lanna). The statue of Kru Ba Sriwichaithat can be seen by the roadside on the accent to Doi Suthep Mountain and was built in 1932.
Hop Inn, Hop Out....... We now must make progress and expect to reach Chiang Rai by 5pm. For the first time this tour we haven't booked or even considered where to stay but it's Katoon's call tonight and I assume she will want to stay in her preferred Hop Inn, and we head for it in the city. The cost would put me over budget again but when we arrive the rate is even more that I expected but in any case 'there's no room in the inn', it's full. I should rub my hands with glee, I've never liked this apartment chain, but I need to hold my breath until an alternative is found.
Another hotel chain B2 has availability nearby but when we arrive the apartment block is under renovation but undeterred Katoon checks us in. The rate of 690 baht is within limits but as with Hop Inn there is no breakfast but at least they provide a kettle to make coffee. Thankfully, the rooms are better than the overall external features suggests but still below standard as issues arise. The principal issue is its location just too far out of town tucked away in side alleys. This means we have to take the car to find dinner with no local options available.
Missing a trick....... Returning from dinner in the city I don't want to repeat this ordeal as we need to be here another two nights. Finally, I get some answers by searching online. The curious thing is that the prices quoted online are lower than by contacting the hotel or resort directly. Have I been missing a trick here? Quoted 890 baht for Bandu Resort, I get the price down to 624 baht. How does that work? This seems to be the way to go in the future. As we turn in for the night the wash hand basin is leaking and what with the austere decore the dislikes of B2 are adding up.
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