Day 12, Saturday 23 February
Unappealing…….. There have been a string of overnight stops now which would have been unbroken since we left Phuket were in not for our overstay in Phang Nha when Katoon was unwell. This really isn’t logical. I desperately need a break to catch up with my blog and just relax for a while and there seems no better place than this. With this Android device, I fear it’s slowing me down. I really miss my standard keyboard. Regarding a second night here, it will be a question of persuading Katoon who is a city dweller not known to be that comfortable in this environment. Well try as I might, the lady is determined to move on presumably to the city of Songkhla away from this glorious natural setting.
As I depart, I'm still scratching my head as to why there is so much urgency to leave. What is it that doesn't appeal in Pak Phayun and what is so compelling in the next location we seem destined for?
Conflict…….. By the 10th century Islam was recorded in Summartra and from there spread to adjoining islands and onto the Malaysian Peninsula. By the Middle Ages it had spread to most of Southern Thailand and some south central regions. This happened while the Kingdom of Ayutthaya was also expanding. As is evidenced by some of my site visits so far, Buddhist centres had been established in some of the southern regions supported by Ayutthaya no doubt causing conflict. Towards the late Ayutthaya period and later under the Rattanakosin kings, more expansion took hold and southern cities began to be populated with Siamese Buddhists from the north. Meanwhile Muslims remained and continued to dominate the rural districts. This is key to the understanding of the conflicts which often arise in Southern Thailand.
As far as I’m concerned, I’ve found the Muslims in the south peace-loving and friendly people but am I prepared to stay overnight in a Muslim homestay? Good question but the point of all this is simple. While I’m open to possibilities, Katoon just feels it too much of a sacrifice to remain in Pak Phayun having less than an cordial relationship with the owners of the resort. Now all of this is not actually so relevant after the event so let’s put that right and do the best we can today. As mentioned before the island of Ko Mak is in view connected to the mainland by a bridge.
Ko Mak…….. Ko Mak, not to be confused with Ko Mak in Trat province, is a finger of land about 20 kms long by around 3 kms wide. It sticks out directly into Songkhla Lake. We decide to head to the tip of the island where there are some natural attractions. Along the way there is nothing more than jungle with some local agriculture and occasional glorious views of the lake. At the tip of the island, the land broadens to the east. Nothing seems to show in this area on Google Map but I’m glad I decide to check it out as here is a substantial area of wetland although as nothing compared with Tale Noi to the north. Nevertheless, the area is teaming with wetland birds. It’s just too good to miss and to stay awhile.
In the small village nearby we stop for noodles and then onto another viewpoint which Google Map does recognise. Lan Yor Ban Laem Kruat, marked on Google Map as the Marina, is not to be missed being one of the outstanding viewpoints of this tour. You arrive on a wooden platform used by fishermen but also turned into an attraction using the large fishing net know as the 'yor' and traps as decor while providing a table an chairs for those wishing to picnic here. It’s just criminal not to spend some time here. Sadly it’s time to leave as we head back towards Pak Phayun. Not far from the bridge, we turn east finding a bridge connecting to yet another island passing through more areas of natural beauty. Finally a much longer bridge takes us into Songkhla province itself.
Wat Cha Lae…….. The first attraction we come across is Wat Cha Lae. This is an ancient monastery consisting of a chedi, a viharn and a well. Detail about this temple has never been found in ancient records but archaeologists believe the artistic style is consistent with buildings in the Ayutthaya period. The only date established so far relates to the well which is 550 years old. On a mound nearby is a wooden viharn containing a seated Buddha image in subduing Mara posture known as Luang Pho Khao Tok built in southern Thai artistic style. There is a story that the image was enshrined here to ward away evil spirits since the area had long been associated with a Muslim cemetery so was abandoned. The viharn was restored in 2011 by the regional office of the Fine Arts Department based in Songkhla.
Searching…….. Finally moving into late afternoon I get a break as we start looking for accommodation on the way to the city of Songkhla. Finally moving into late afternoon we start looking for accommodation on the way to the city of Songkhla. Before long, as nothing suitable appears, disagreement flares up again when I realise Katoon wants to stay in a modern appartment closer to the city, to my mind defeating the object of being here but I guess I’ll just have to imagine I haven’t arrived back in Bangkok just yet.
The Pine House…….. Despite its name, there is nothing natural about Pine House. It’s an apartment block on a busy main road into the city just perfect conditions for Katoon. Moving in, there are immediate concerns about road noise then I experience poor connection speed for the internet. As we head out into the street, the sight of so much familiar Thai food is just too much for Katoon to contain herself. After eating a rather overpriced meal in a restaurant that she’s surely been missing, she starts filling bag after bag with food which will probably end up in the bin but she seems happy now. Back in the room I’m still playing catch up with my blog and work till I’m right up to date. Now lets hope for some sleep.
Next Page.
Unappealing…….. There have been a string of overnight stops now which would have been unbroken since we left Phuket were in not for our overstay in Phang Nha when Katoon was unwell. This really isn’t logical. I desperately need a break to catch up with my blog and just relax for a while and there seems no better place than this. With this Android device, I fear it’s slowing me down. I really miss my standard keyboard. Regarding a second night here, it will be a question of persuading Katoon who is a city dweller not known to be that comfortable in this environment. Well try as I might, the lady is determined to move on presumably to the city of Songkhla away from this glorious natural setting.
As I depart, I'm still scratching my head as to why there is so much urgency to leave. What is it that doesn't appeal in Pak Phayun and what is so compelling in the next location we seem destined for?
Conflict…….. By the 10th century Islam was recorded in Summartra and from there spread to adjoining islands and onto the Malaysian Peninsula. By the Middle Ages it had spread to most of Southern Thailand and some south central regions. This happened while the Kingdom of Ayutthaya was also expanding. As is evidenced by some of my site visits so far, Buddhist centres had been established in some of the southern regions supported by Ayutthaya no doubt causing conflict. Towards the late Ayutthaya period and later under the Rattanakosin kings, more expansion took hold and southern cities began to be populated with Siamese Buddhists from the north. Meanwhile Muslims remained and continued to dominate the rural districts. This is key to the understanding of the conflicts which often arise in Southern Thailand.
As far as I’m concerned, I’ve found the Muslims in the south peace-loving and friendly people but am I prepared to stay overnight in a Muslim homestay? Good question but the point of all this is simple. While I’m open to possibilities, Katoon just feels it too much of a sacrifice to remain in Pak Phayun having less than an cordial relationship with the owners of the resort. Now all of this is not actually so relevant after the event so let’s put that right and do the best we can today. As mentioned before the island of Ko Mak is in view connected to the mainland by a bridge.
Ko Mak…….. Ko Mak, not to be confused with Ko Mak in Trat province, is a finger of land about 20 kms long by around 3 kms wide. It sticks out directly into Songkhla Lake. We decide to head to the tip of the island where there are some natural attractions. Along the way there is nothing more than jungle with some local agriculture and occasional glorious views of the lake. At the tip of the island, the land broadens to the east. Nothing seems to show in this area on Google Map but I’m glad I decide to check it out as here is a substantial area of wetland although as nothing compared with Tale Noi to the north. Nevertheless, the area is teaming with wetland birds. It’s just too good to miss and to stay awhile.
In the small village nearby we stop for noodles and then onto another viewpoint which Google Map does recognise. Lan Yor Ban Laem Kruat, marked on Google Map as the Marina, is not to be missed being one of the outstanding viewpoints of this tour. You arrive on a wooden platform used by fishermen but also turned into an attraction using the large fishing net know as the 'yor' and traps as decor while providing a table an chairs for those wishing to picnic here. It’s just criminal not to spend some time here. Sadly it’s time to leave as we head back towards Pak Phayun. Not far from the bridge, we turn east finding a bridge connecting to yet another island passing through more areas of natural beauty. Finally a much longer bridge takes us into Songkhla province itself.
Wat Cha Lae…….. The first attraction we come across is Wat Cha Lae. This is an ancient monastery consisting of a chedi, a viharn and a well. Detail about this temple has never been found in ancient records but archaeologists believe the artistic style is consistent with buildings in the Ayutthaya period. The only date established so far relates to the well which is 550 years old. On a mound nearby is a wooden viharn containing a seated Buddha image in subduing Mara posture known as Luang Pho Khao Tok built in southern Thai artistic style. There is a story that the image was enshrined here to ward away evil spirits since the area had long been associated with a Muslim cemetery so was abandoned. The viharn was restored in 2011 by the regional office of the Fine Arts Department based in Songkhla.
Searching…….. Finally moving into late afternoon I get a break as we start looking for accommodation on the way to the city of Songkhla. Finally moving into late afternoon we start looking for accommodation on the way to the city of Songkhla. Before long, as nothing suitable appears, disagreement flares up again when I realise Katoon wants to stay in a modern appartment closer to the city, to my mind defeating the object of being here but I guess I’ll just have to imagine I haven’t arrived back in Bangkok just yet.
The Pine House…….. Despite its name, there is nothing natural about Pine House. It’s an apartment block on a busy main road into the city just perfect conditions for Katoon. Moving in, there are immediate concerns about road noise then I experience poor connection speed for the internet. As we head out into the street, the sight of so much familiar Thai food is just too much for Katoon to contain herself. After eating a rather overpriced meal in a restaurant that she’s surely been missing, she starts filling bag after bag with food which will probably end up in the bin but she seems happy now. Back in the room I’m still playing catch up with my blog and work till I’m right up to date. Now lets hope for some sleep.
Next Page.
