Day 11, Friday 22 February
What no pork!…….. Lampam Beach is a pleasant location on the edge of the vast Songkhla Lake. Ok it’s not Krabi or Phang Nga but is nonetheless popular, yet despite arriving from across town around lunchtime yesterday we haven’t actually arrived at the beach proper yet. Neither have we completed the tour around the city. With these annoying coughs still hanging over us with its aches and pains and general feeling of lethargy, the decision as to whether to remain here another day has to be made soon. However, first there is the matter of breakfast which is included in the price. For us as late risers or leavers, 9.30am for the end of the breakfast session seems a bit mean. When we arrive in the restaurant at 9am there is a full buffet breakfast and all seems pleasant enough beside a canal that connects to the lake. However, that’s as far as the pleasantries go since the food trays are virtually empty. Were we working to a military timetable I wonder. Well, there are enough sausages and some fried rice left but it seems that, with toast and coffee will have to do. As for the sausages, they are tasteless but I realise there is no pork here and chicken sausages are not real sausages. No wonder there are plenty left.
Back in the room we still haven’t decided to stay or leave and it’s coming up to 11am. Just as we’re in debate there is a knock on the door. Well that ends the debate. Tonight, they are fully booked. Within 15 minutes, we’re ready to depart and in a way, I feel it’s a blessing in disguise.
Lampam Beach…….. To reach the promenade, we need to go back and cross the bridge and follow the canal from the other side. To call Lampam Beach a beach is not accurate as there’s only the promenade and an area for recreation under sea pine trees. A footbridge connects it to a small island which houses a floating market. Presently there’s a swell running across the lake due to strong winds, dumping water onto the promenade causing flooding in places. This does not deter local people bringing their kids to play in the park and just sit around snacking. They seem to have the right idea.
Wat Wang…….. The name of Wat Wang shows association with a royal palace and onsite information describes its history.
This temple was built by Phaya Phattalung (Thongkhao) and was once the place where government officials performed allegiance pledges in the early Rattanakosin period. Inside the convocation hall are murals of dusted paint from the time of king Rama IV about the biography of Lord Buddha and the angels. A total of 108 images line the balcony around the building.
Unfortunately, at the present time the hall is closed for restoration including work on the roof so I must be content photographing the contemporary chedi and monument to Phaya Phattalung. Nevertheless, it reinforces my understanding of the association this area had with Siam over several centuries.
Khao Ok Thalu…….. Khao Ok Thalu is a tall limestone mountain on the edge of Phatthalung. We arrive here as we did on the first day but in that case, we were accommodation hunting. While we turned it down, Mountain View Guest House near the foot of the mountain would be most convenient for visitors to Khao Ok Thalu.
The mountain is a symbol of the province and is about 250 metres high. Stairs lead to the summit where visitors can get a panoramic view of the province. The name of the mountain derives from a hole near the top that allows people to see through the mountain.
Just a note by me that given the average step height, there will be 5 to the metre. Of course, we are a little above mean sea level here but there would be some 1,200 steps or equivalent to reach the summit. Just so you know.
Phatthalung Railway Station…….. This is, of course, a repeat of yesterday evening’s excursion except for the time of day and that it is on the way to our next site visit. As I arrive there is a train due, a local service to Surat Thani. I wait till it passes. The next location is just minutes away.
Wat Khuha Sawan…….. Wat Khuha Sawan is located at the foot of Khao Sawan (Sawan Hill) near Phatthalung market. It was built in the Ayutthaya period and was later upgraded to be the first royal temple in the province. Within the grounds of Wat Khuha Sawan is a cave which the locals call Tham Nam Ngoen (blue cave) or Tham Pa (Buddha cave). Inside the cave are some attractive items known in the Ayutthaya period including a group of Buddha images and some important votive tablets in Srivijaya style. Also found in the cave are royal monograms of former kings and members of the royal family.
The Fine Arts Department registered the cave in March 1935 as a historical monument.
From my visit, where I am able to obtain this information, I can see evidence that a temple existed here a long time ago as I wander through the compound. However, I'm not aware of a cave here until I am almost upon it and even then, think the gate to it is locked but it's loosely fitted to stop dogs from entering and for the metal doors from flapping in the wind. Once inside though, I almost forget the elegant images around me as the cave is quite magnificent in its own rite, certainly one of the better ones I’ve visited in Thailand.
Health check…….. We next head back into town. Katoon is not happy with the symptoms she still has and would rather see a doctor. This is rather unusual for her as this is about the last thing she would do but I just suspect she’s worried about the coronovirus outbreak. She first tries to find a clinic but she should know that these open late in the day after the doctors have finished their duties in hospital. She should go to the hospital directly which is what she finally decides to do. At Phatthalung Hospital there’s an initial parking issue but once inside registration and preliminary checks are swift. It’s rather strange to see the tables turned as it’s normally me who’s on the receiving end. Expecting a bit of a wait, I’m almost in shock as she’s called straight in to see a doctor: would never in the reign of pig’s pudding normally happen like that, particularly on a Saturday afternoon. At the end of the process, there is nothing to worry about. No fever, no worries but armed with a bag load of tablets, she should be happier.
With that decision to leave the city made earlier, we should have been well away by now but it’s still only 4pm and time enough. With it we even decide to head for one of the more remote districts of Phatthalung province.
Kong Ra District…….. Katoon has bookmarked Kong Ra as a district of outstanding beauty on the edge of the Nakhon Si Thammarat range. Just 30 minutes is needed to reach it. On approach, we realise how remote this area is and should be careful not to stay too long on account of accommodation issues. That concern is soon raised. We reach an obvious beauty spot where there are a handful of cabins. It happens they are occupied tonight but, in any event, I doubt we could endure some of the deprivation that staying in one would entail. However, community spirit kicks in and they phone a friend. We will be offered a homestay with a Muslim family if we wish. It’s not at all likely but there’s no harm in taking a look. We arrive and the room is I would say homely but still without some basics. I’m sure in my younger days I could be tempted but a mattress on the floor is too much for me now. The visit to the community homestead is far from a waste of time though, as my photos show. They have a natural enterprise going here with pools full of fish which they breed for sale. The fish are a species of tilapia. The resourcefulness and sense of communal wellbeing in such a rich natural environment is what sets these people apart from city dwellers.
As always, I keep a check on the time, endeavouring to reach my next destination before dark. That in itself is not the real issue, it’s just that there should be no need of it. Getting settled and having the evening free works much better. At this point we are over an hour from a town of any size as we head south but with traffic light, we should be starting to look for accommodation around 6pm.
Pak Phayun…….. Pak Phayun, translated as ‘estuary of the dugong’, is still in Phatthalung province and is another location on the Songkhla lake. As it’s a Saturday evening it’s wise to call ahead even though there seems to be a good selection of accommodation but after several calls, we’ve hit a roadblock. They are all full. We would still like to be near the town and it looks like we are starting to get towards the bottom of the barrel but the next one we try has a vacancy. At 500 baht, it looks cheap but will meet our needs? We’re now just 10 minutes from the town.
Sengtian Resort…….. Locating Sengtian Resort, we find it odd the we cannot find the entrance but we are at the right place. Soon a girl arrives and explains that there are individual entrances, all equipped with sliding gates to keep the many stray dogs in the area out. Having checked the bungalows out, I find them really ok, quite spacious and functional with everything in its place and parking right outside. There is no breakfast but coffee is free in the room. Without unpacking, we head into the town less than a kilometre away.
Restfull…….. Located in the town is a promenade, with views across the lake and the island of Ko Mak close by. Along the promenade are street food vendors selling a wide range of foods, including beef burger and chips. Having made my selection, I head for a vacant seat with a view over the lake to consume my purchase. So rarely do I get a chance to do this, it begs the question why? The answer to that is now sitting next to me but I wouldn’t mind stopping over here to catch up with things and jest relax for a while. Back in the room I’m feeling more relaxed than for some time. A good night’s sleep would be perfect now.
Next Page.
What no pork!…….. Lampam Beach is a pleasant location on the edge of the vast Songkhla Lake. Ok it’s not Krabi or Phang Nga but is nonetheless popular, yet despite arriving from across town around lunchtime yesterday we haven’t actually arrived at the beach proper yet. Neither have we completed the tour around the city. With these annoying coughs still hanging over us with its aches and pains and general feeling of lethargy, the decision as to whether to remain here another day has to be made soon. However, first there is the matter of breakfast which is included in the price. For us as late risers or leavers, 9.30am for the end of the breakfast session seems a bit mean. When we arrive in the restaurant at 9am there is a full buffet breakfast and all seems pleasant enough beside a canal that connects to the lake. However, that’s as far as the pleasantries go since the food trays are virtually empty. Were we working to a military timetable I wonder. Well, there are enough sausages and some fried rice left but it seems that, with toast and coffee will have to do. As for the sausages, they are tasteless but I realise there is no pork here and chicken sausages are not real sausages. No wonder there are plenty left.
Back in the room we still haven’t decided to stay or leave and it’s coming up to 11am. Just as we’re in debate there is a knock on the door. Well that ends the debate. Tonight, they are fully booked. Within 15 minutes, we’re ready to depart and in a way, I feel it’s a blessing in disguise.
Lampam Beach…….. To reach the promenade, we need to go back and cross the bridge and follow the canal from the other side. To call Lampam Beach a beach is not accurate as there’s only the promenade and an area for recreation under sea pine trees. A footbridge connects it to a small island which houses a floating market. Presently there’s a swell running across the lake due to strong winds, dumping water onto the promenade causing flooding in places. This does not deter local people bringing their kids to play in the park and just sit around snacking. They seem to have the right idea.
Wat Wang…….. The name of Wat Wang shows association with a royal palace and onsite information describes its history.
This temple was built by Phaya Phattalung (Thongkhao) and was once the place where government officials performed allegiance pledges in the early Rattanakosin period. Inside the convocation hall are murals of dusted paint from the time of king Rama IV about the biography of Lord Buddha and the angels. A total of 108 images line the balcony around the building.
Unfortunately, at the present time the hall is closed for restoration including work on the roof so I must be content photographing the contemporary chedi and monument to Phaya Phattalung. Nevertheless, it reinforces my understanding of the association this area had with Siam over several centuries.
Khao Ok Thalu…….. Khao Ok Thalu is a tall limestone mountain on the edge of Phatthalung. We arrive here as we did on the first day but in that case, we were accommodation hunting. While we turned it down, Mountain View Guest House near the foot of the mountain would be most convenient for visitors to Khao Ok Thalu.
The mountain is a symbol of the province and is about 250 metres high. Stairs lead to the summit where visitors can get a panoramic view of the province. The name of the mountain derives from a hole near the top that allows people to see through the mountain.
Just a note by me that given the average step height, there will be 5 to the metre. Of course, we are a little above mean sea level here but there would be some 1,200 steps or equivalent to reach the summit. Just so you know.
Phatthalung Railway Station…….. This is, of course, a repeat of yesterday evening’s excursion except for the time of day and that it is on the way to our next site visit. As I arrive there is a train due, a local service to Surat Thani. I wait till it passes. The next location is just minutes away.
Wat Khuha Sawan…….. Wat Khuha Sawan is located at the foot of Khao Sawan (Sawan Hill) near Phatthalung market. It was built in the Ayutthaya period and was later upgraded to be the first royal temple in the province. Within the grounds of Wat Khuha Sawan is a cave which the locals call Tham Nam Ngoen (blue cave) or Tham Pa (Buddha cave). Inside the cave are some attractive items known in the Ayutthaya period including a group of Buddha images and some important votive tablets in Srivijaya style. Also found in the cave are royal monograms of former kings and members of the royal family.
The Fine Arts Department registered the cave in March 1935 as a historical monument.
From my visit, where I am able to obtain this information, I can see evidence that a temple existed here a long time ago as I wander through the compound. However, I'm not aware of a cave here until I am almost upon it and even then, think the gate to it is locked but it's loosely fitted to stop dogs from entering and for the metal doors from flapping in the wind. Once inside though, I almost forget the elegant images around me as the cave is quite magnificent in its own rite, certainly one of the better ones I’ve visited in Thailand.
Health check…….. We next head back into town. Katoon is not happy with the symptoms she still has and would rather see a doctor. This is rather unusual for her as this is about the last thing she would do but I just suspect she’s worried about the coronovirus outbreak. She first tries to find a clinic but she should know that these open late in the day after the doctors have finished their duties in hospital. She should go to the hospital directly which is what she finally decides to do. At Phatthalung Hospital there’s an initial parking issue but once inside registration and preliminary checks are swift. It’s rather strange to see the tables turned as it’s normally me who’s on the receiving end. Expecting a bit of a wait, I’m almost in shock as she’s called straight in to see a doctor: would never in the reign of pig’s pudding normally happen like that, particularly on a Saturday afternoon. At the end of the process, there is nothing to worry about. No fever, no worries but armed with a bag load of tablets, she should be happier.
With that decision to leave the city made earlier, we should have been well away by now but it’s still only 4pm and time enough. With it we even decide to head for one of the more remote districts of Phatthalung province.
Kong Ra District…….. Katoon has bookmarked Kong Ra as a district of outstanding beauty on the edge of the Nakhon Si Thammarat range. Just 30 minutes is needed to reach it. On approach, we realise how remote this area is and should be careful not to stay too long on account of accommodation issues. That concern is soon raised. We reach an obvious beauty spot where there are a handful of cabins. It happens they are occupied tonight but, in any event, I doubt we could endure some of the deprivation that staying in one would entail. However, community spirit kicks in and they phone a friend. We will be offered a homestay with a Muslim family if we wish. It’s not at all likely but there’s no harm in taking a look. We arrive and the room is I would say homely but still without some basics. I’m sure in my younger days I could be tempted but a mattress on the floor is too much for me now. The visit to the community homestead is far from a waste of time though, as my photos show. They have a natural enterprise going here with pools full of fish which they breed for sale. The fish are a species of tilapia. The resourcefulness and sense of communal wellbeing in such a rich natural environment is what sets these people apart from city dwellers.
As always, I keep a check on the time, endeavouring to reach my next destination before dark. That in itself is not the real issue, it’s just that there should be no need of it. Getting settled and having the evening free works much better. At this point we are over an hour from a town of any size as we head south but with traffic light, we should be starting to look for accommodation around 6pm.
Pak Phayun…….. Pak Phayun, translated as ‘estuary of the dugong’, is still in Phatthalung province and is another location on the Songkhla lake. As it’s a Saturday evening it’s wise to call ahead even though there seems to be a good selection of accommodation but after several calls, we’ve hit a roadblock. They are all full. We would still like to be near the town and it looks like we are starting to get towards the bottom of the barrel but the next one we try has a vacancy. At 500 baht, it looks cheap but will meet our needs? We’re now just 10 minutes from the town.
Sengtian Resort…….. Locating Sengtian Resort, we find it odd the we cannot find the entrance but we are at the right place. Soon a girl arrives and explains that there are individual entrances, all equipped with sliding gates to keep the many stray dogs in the area out. Having checked the bungalows out, I find them really ok, quite spacious and functional with everything in its place and parking right outside. There is no breakfast but coffee is free in the room. Without unpacking, we head into the town less than a kilometre away.
Restfull…….. Located in the town is a promenade, with views across the lake and the island of Ko Mak close by. Along the promenade are street food vendors selling a wide range of foods, including beef burger and chips. Having made my selection, I head for a vacant seat with a view over the lake to consume my purchase. So rarely do I get a chance to do this, it begs the question why? The answer to that is now sitting next to me but I wouldn’t mind stopping over here to catch up with things and jest relax for a while. Back in the room I’m feeling more relaxed than for some time. A good night’s sleep would be perfect now.
Next Page.
