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Section 2 of my visit to Turkey begins with Dave’s departure on the morning of 3 September bringing to an end Section one of my tour and the arrival of Katoon in the evening. Planning a complicated tour such as this to a country I’ve never visited before was always going to be a challenge. However, Katoon had selected her destinations and I was happy to produce an itinerary to meet her needs. I figured that she would need a break after her flight from Bangkok on the 4 September and stay in Istanbul for the first day. We would be able to return to the city later. Nevertheless, the sightseeing had begun and I was feeling more adventurous. The following day we departed for Ankara which had a few must see attractions but as I suspected, this modern city is not an obvious choice for a tourist. The two full days we spent in the city could have been reduced to one. We did, however, rate our accommodation most highly.
Moving on to Göreme in Cappadocia, I accept that this was a good choice by dear Katoon who had done her homework. Göreme is the hub for exploring an amazing landscape in central Anatolia and with a combination of natural, historic and religious attractions as well as a wealth of available activities, it’s clear as to why this is a major destination in Turkey. The flip side of this is the cost of visiting the attractions and of the activities including balloon flights, ATV tours, horse riding etc. In this tourist destination, everything is more expensive than in other parts of the country. We concluded that many of the activities weren’t good value for money. For most people, this is not the place for an add-on tour. You really have to accept this as your primary destination and set your budget accordingly. For this reason, with hindsight, we stayed too long here but to compensate we had some amazing walks so for hikers this location is a highly recommended alternative with unlimited options. Returning to Istanbul we continued visiting other attractions but felt that more time was needed here in this historic city: Time we could have easily gained. The idea of using public transport during Section 2 of this tour, as was always going to be the case, limited our scope yet despite visiting some of Turkey’s exotic locations we had no grand ambitions anyway.
As for a score for Section 2, I give 7/10 for completing the tour successfully. In the end about 1,800 kilometres were covered. Apart from my wretched cough and cold there were no incidents/accidents to report. Perhaps the biggest surprise; it didn’t feel like it at the time, was that I came in well below budget. It appears that we were conservative with visiting attractions and found Turkish cuisine not particularly interesting enough to strain the budget.
Moving on to Göreme in Cappadocia, I accept that this was a good choice by dear Katoon who had done her homework. Göreme is the hub for exploring an amazing landscape in central Anatolia and with a combination of natural, historic and religious attractions as well as a wealth of available activities, it’s clear as to why this is a major destination in Turkey. The flip side of this is the cost of visiting the attractions and of the activities including balloon flights, ATV tours, horse riding etc. In this tourist destination, everything is more expensive than in other parts of the country. We concluded that many of the activities weren’t good value for money. For most people, this is not the place for an add-on tour. You really have to accept this as your primary destination and set your budget accordingly. For this reason, with hindsight, we stayed too long here but to compensate we had some amazing walks so for hikers this location is a highly recommended alternative with unlimited options. Returning to Istanbul we continued visiting other attractions but felt that more time was needed here in this historic city: Time we could have easily gained. The idea of using public transport during Section 2 of this tour, as was always going to be the case, limited our scope yet despite visiting some of Turkey’s exotic locations we had no grand ambitions anyway.
As for a score for Section 2, I give 7/10 for completing the tour successfully. In the end about 1,800 kilometres were covered. Apart from my wretched cough and cold there were no incidents/accidents to report. Perhaps the biggest surprise; it didn’t feel like it at the time, was that I came in well below budget. It appears that we were conservative with visiting attractions and found Turkish cuisine not particularly interesting enough to strain the budget.
As I have written a conclusion for both sections of this tour, I can now generalise about my overall experience in Turkey. While the decision to hire a car during Section 1 of the tour was correct, I didn’t see that necessary in Section 2 due to the distances involved. However, Turkish roads outside the main cities are excellent and traffic light. All major towns have bypasses. I therefore regret that we did not hire a car for at least some parts Section 2. There would have been some important advantages; more options for visiting attractions, more flexibility with accommodation and better options in selection of where to eat. It would have surely led to a more enjoyable experience too.
At the time I found it hard to reconcile some of the difficulties to the extent that I felt another visit to Turkey unlikely. Since then I have reconsidered and feel a resort holiday coupled with historical site visits would work. I could overcome some of the inconveniences of the recent tour. Most importantly, I would have to be independent and that would mean hiring a car and self-catering. We shall see.
As mentioned earlier, I was not able to plaster my coverage of this first visit to Turkey with masses of site reviews in the way I would prefer except for the Gallipoli tour. For the remainder of the time I only managed to cover a few select locations for visit and study. However, I can generalise about the tour in a way that will be useful to those who like me, plan to visit Turkey for the first time. So here are my findings:
Transport:
The general transport infrastructure in Turkey is very good and facilities for travellers much cheaper than in the UK.
Internal flights are affordable and convenient in Turkey. A return ticket from Istanbul to Dalaman for example is £124. However, overland routes are still the most popular and you would not have to pay more than £20 for a full day’s travel by coach. These are modern, spacious and comfortable and offers the advantage of just turn up and go. Trains are also inexpensive. That even applies the high-speed train Istanbul to Ankara. The fare set at 110 Turkish lira. Within the larger cities the yellow taxis are metred and a typical journey would cost just £3 for shorter journeys. Public transport a really cheap. In Istanbul you need to buy an Istanbul Card for use on the trains, the metro, busses and trams. Most journeys are 2-3 lira. This card costs 6 lira and can be topped up at any ticket machine. The card can also be used for the coaches to and from the airport at the cost of 18 lira. Car hire in Turkey is available at competitive rates for as little as £100/week. Fuel is less than £1/litre. Accommodation:
Accommodation varies widely from hostels to 5-star hotels starting from around £20/night but you should consider very carefully where you plan to stay. In the old quarter of Istanbul around Sultanamet for example you may find yourself hauling your luggage some distance as I did, through the narrow-cobbled streets. For a first-time traveller I would recommend the area around Taksim Square as more convenient. My only other comment is the fact that in general the descriptions and reviews offered on some booking sites leave a lot to be desired. For this combined tour, the accommodation used ranged from the sublime to the ridiculous. I appreciate that convenience and peace of mind is key to advance booking of accommodation without which, I would prefer just to turn up and check first. There are so many options to do just that.
Dining:
I don’t plan to say too much about Turkish food as for me it is not one of the experiences I crave for. Again, there is a wide range of choice and expect shish and doner kebabs as standard. A simple wrap or roll would be less that 10 lira while in restaurants expect to pay 20 lira up. Lamb, beef and chicken are common but not pork of course. Fish is a good option especially near the coast. Sea bass or sea bream is available everywhere for about 40 lira. With any meal expect free bread which is ridiculously cheap. The variety of flatbreads, pizzas, baguettes, naans, rotis etc. will astound you. For international food, McDonalds etc, expect these only in larger towns.
While water and soft drinks are relatively cheap, alcohol is certainly not. Even one beer can be as much as the meal itself typically 25 lira. Licencing laws are very strict. Drinking in restaurants is tolerated only due to heavy taxes levied. Pubs are few and far between but where they exist, they can be cheaper than eating in restaurants. Off licences sell bear for 10 lira or less. The normal Effes beer is around 12 lira. Cheaper quality wine is 20-25 lira.
My conclusion is that if you are able to find accommodation for self-catering you will save shed loads of money.
Shopping:
If you plan to visit Turkey, don’t go out and buy your footwear or clothing first. Almost everything you need is much cheaper in Turkey. Do visit the bazaars. In Istanbul you have to visit the Grand and Spice Bazaars. These will not only meet your personal needs but allow shopping for souvenirs too. Be prepared to haggle although many traders are using fixed prices in the bazaars now.
Shopping tips: Turkish carpet and rugs, Turkish delight, Turkish tea and glasses, nargile pipes, the blue evil eye of Turkey, gold, Turkish mosaic lamps, ceramic souvenirs, copper, Turkish spices, Turkish coffee, souvenir onyx ideas, leather, lemon cologne.
Other Issues:
Some issues you may not find pleasant include smoking in public. I understand that 85% of Turkish people don’t drink but instead they sit around smoking in cafes. On more than one occasion we had to change tables in a restaurant when someone sat at the next table and lit up a cigarette. Following on from that, it’s sad to see so many cigarette buts ending up littering the cobbled streets.
Finally, although I was slow to accept the fact, it was clear that the Turkish public are generally friendly and helpful. Nothing seems too much trouble for them. Many have some English to aid communication. Back to Section 1.
At the time I found it hard to reconcile some of the difficulties to the extent that I felt another visit to Turkey unlikely. Since then I have reconsidered and feel a resort holiday coupled with historical site visits would work. I could overcome some of the inconveniences of the recent tour. Most importantly, I would have to be independent and that would mean hiring a car and self-catering. We shall see.
As mentioned earlier, I was not able to plaster my coverage of this first visit to Turkey with masses of site reviews in the way I would prefer except for the Gallipoli tour. For the remainder of the time I only managed to cover a few select locations for visit and study. However, I can generalise about the tour in a way that will be useful to those who like me, plan to visit Turkey for the first time. So here are my findings:
Transport:
The general transport infrastructure in Turkey is very good and facilities for travellers much cheaper than in the UK.
Internal flights are affordable and convenient in Turkey. A return ticket from Istanbul to Dalaman for example is £124. However, overland routes are still the most popular and you would not have to pay more than £20 for a full day’s travel by coach. These are modern, spacious and comfortable and offers the advantage of just turn up and go. Trains are also inexpensive. That even applies the high-speed train Istanbul to Ankara. The fare set at 110 Turkish lira. Within the larger cities the yellow taxis are metred and a typical journey would cost just £3 for shorter journeys. Public transport a really cheap. In Istanbul you need to buy an Istanbul Card for use on the trains, the metro, busses and trams. Most journeys are 2-3 lira. This card costs 6 lira and can be topped up at any ticket machine. The card can also be used for the coaches to and from the airport at the cost of 18 lira. Car hire in Turkey is available at competitive rates for as little as £100/week. Fuel is less than £1/litre. Accommodation:
Accommodation varies widely from hostels to 5-star hotels starting from around £20/night but you should consider very carefully where you plan to stay. In the old quarter of Istanbul around Sultanamet for example you may find yourself hauling your luggage some distance as I did, through the narrow-cobbled streets. For a first-time traveller I would recommend the area around Taksim Square as more convenient. My only other comment is the fact that in general the descriptions and reviews offered on some booking sites leave a lot to be desired. For this combined tour, the accommodation used ranged from the sublime to the ridiculous. I appreciate that convenience and peace of mind is key to advance booking of accommodation without which, I would prefer just to turn up and check first. There are so many options to do just that.
Dining:
I don’t plan to say too much about Turkish food as for me it is not one of the experiences I crave for. Again, there is a wide range of choice and expect shish and doner kebabs as standard. A simple wrap or roll would be less that 10 lira while in restaurants expect to pay 20 lira up. Lamb, beef and chicken are common but not pork of course. Fish is a good option especially near the coast. Sea bass or sea bream is available everywhere for about 40 lira. With any meal expect free bread which is ridiculously cheap. The variety of flatbreads, pizzas, baguettes, naans, rotis etc. will astound you. For international food, McDonalds etc, expect these only in larger towns.
While water and soft drinks are relatively cheap, alcohol is certainly not. Even one beer can be as much as the meal itself typically 25 lira. Licencing laws are very strict. Drinking in restaurants is tolerated only due to heavy taxes levied. Pubs are few and far between but where they exist, they can be cheaper than eating in restaurants. Off licences sell bear for 10 lira or less. The normal Effes beer is around 12 lira. Cheaper quality wine is 20-25 lira.
My conclusion is that if you are able to find accommodation for self-catering you will save shed loads of money.
Shopping:
If you plan to visit Turkey, don’t go out and buy your footwear or clothing first. Almost everything you need is much cheaper in Turkey. Do visit the bazaars. In Istanbul you have to visit the Grand and Spice Bazaars. These will not only meet your personal needs but allow shopping for souvenirs too. Be prepared to haggle although many traders are using fixed prices in the bazaars now.
Shopping tips: Turkish carpet and rugs, Turkish delight, Turkish tea and glasses, nargile pipes, the blue evil eye of Turkey, gold, Turkish mosaic lamps, ceramic souvenirs, copper, Turkish spices, Turkish coffee, souvenir onyx ideas, leather, lemon cologne.
Other Issues:
Some issues you may not find pleasant include smoking in public. I understand that 85% of Turkish people don’t drink but instead they sit around smoking in cafes. On more than one occasion we had to change tables in a restaurant when someone sat at the next table and lit up a cigarette. Following on from that, it’s sad to see so many cigarette buts ending up littering the cobbled streets.
Finally, although I was slow to accept the fact, it was clear that the Turkish public are generally friendly and helpful. Nothing seems too much trouble for them. Many have some English to aid communication. Back to Section 1.