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TOUR (19B) - 28th April to 17th May 2019

Pha Chor Tourist Point, Mae Wang National Park, Doi Lo District, Chiang Mai Province


Day 16, Monday 13 May

Mopping up…….. The prophecy that I would have a restless night was bang on the mark but I just have to get on with it as I have to produce my entire blog for yesterday from scratch. It was quite an eventful day to deal with and I just can’t manage to complete it before a reasonable departure time. Katoon’s irritation is all too evident as we go over to the terrace for coffee but little else.…….. The only site visits planned today are in and around Chom Thong but we will have to see what else we can fit in as time is against us now.
Wat Phra That Si Chom Thong Worawiharn…….. The first site is in the town of Chom Thong but I’m surprised by the amount of traffic crawling through the town. Finally we locate it on the left hand side of the 108 heading south.
Wat Phra That Si Chom Thong Worawiharn is one of the most important sites in Chiang Mai province as it houses a holy Buddha relic, believed to be parts of the right side of the Lord Buddha’s head. It is interesting that the relic is not buried underground as are most, but is kept in a container in the temple and can be taken out to bathe for blessings. Legend has it that the Lord Buddha came to the hilltop where the temple now stands and foretold that the place would later house a holy relic. The holy relic was found by Mrs Meng and Mr Soi who built a pagoda as well as a priest’s bedchamber at Doi Din Thong. The temple was therefore named Wat Chom Thong. Later King Muang Kaew, the 4th ruler of the Mangrai Dynasty, built the main assembly hall here.
The viharn at this temple is particularly attractive. Most of the roof, upper walls and huge supports are of wood as you would expect in the Lanna style but the decoration of gold leaf on black on all wooden features, is striking. The viharn also contains a large collection of religious artifacts.



Wat Phra That Si Chom Thong Worawiharn, Chom Thong, Chiang Mai Province

U-turn…….. U-turns in Thailand are about as common as they are in UK politics. Well, signposted from Chom Thong is Mae Ya waterfall. It wasn’t on my visit list but checking the excellent reviews about this waterfall, I decide to head for it, but I guess I should have realised that as it is inside the Doi Inthanon National Park with access to all the other attractions, I wouldn’t get away with paying the 300 baht a second time. If it’s just for the waterfall, I can’t justify going into the park again.
Pha Chor Tourist Point…….. Pha Chor, located further north in the direction of Chiang Mai, off the 108 along a road to the left, is a geological feature, part of Mae Wang National Park. It requires a 30 kilometre round trip from the main highway. This feature is on Katoon’s list apparently an old favourite but apart from seeing photographs, I know nothing about it. Things I need to know, centre on accessibility and an approximate time expended on site. Reaching the park entrance there is a more modest fee to pay of 100 baht but it really needs to be a bit special. It’s soon clear that this is no Doi Inthanon with no upland features just seemingly endless woodland looking forlorn through lack of rain.
Passing a parking area signposted as car park no. 3, we head up the the viewpoint where apart from distant mountains there is just a huge expanse of ancient forest on barely undulation land. However, there is a nature trail here but as I prepare myself to see where it leads, I'm told to get back in the car and head back to car park no. 3, from where Pha Chor is more easily accessible. From here there is a well laid out trail, fairly flat with just a couple of longer staircases to negotiate. Along the trail, various tree species are identified with particular attention on the leaves, bark and fruit used for medicinal purposes. It really does bring it home what a loss it would be if these forests disappeared. As for Pha Chor itself at the end of the trail, I’m not at all disappointed but nevertheless as I’m no geologist and could not attempt to describe it other than its a lovely place of natural beauty. For more information I have to refer to the information boards provided.
Pha Chor is a natural phenomenon which resulted from the build-up of sediment around the edge of a river basin. Later through tectonic forces, the area was lifted up forming a steep slope taking the sediment with it. Afterwards natural forces such as wind and rain eroded and washed away the sediment leaving beautiful vertical rock stacks. These formed 5 million years ago in the Tertiary Period. Today the Ping River has relocated its course some 10 kilometres from Pha Chor. Due to the large number of rounded pebbles of various sizes at Pha Chor it can reasonably be assumed that this was the old river bed of the Ping river.
As a bonus, there is a park ranger at this site who is more than willing to take photos for us since we are the only visitors at the present time.





Pha Chor Tourist Point, Doi Lo District, Chiang Mai Province

Kiw Sur Ten and Kuang Sao Hin…….. Kiw Sur Ten and Kuang Sao Hin are features just a short drive away from Pha Cor with a trail laid out to reach both, a round trip of 500 metres. Apart from different textures and colours the notes that apply to Pha Chor apply equally here. Apart from more steps to reach the viewpoint, the trail is quite easy.
Visiting both sites takes well over a hour and it’s now well past lunch time. It should be straightforward now to head back to highway 108 but there is a problem: Which way do we turn? What happens next is one of the more energetic arguments we’ve had on this tour. It’s too early to start heading back to Bangkok but heading the opposite way takes us back to Chiang Mai to do what ask? Well, apparently that's the way we’re heading so that forces my hand to make a decision. We will be heading for Chiang Mai but then heading east, the destination, Phayao. However we won’t be able to reach Phayao before dark so there will be a stopover on the way. Plotting a route using the bypass to keep clear of the city the intention is to pick up highway 118 at Doi Saket which is also used to access Chaing Rai. That gives Katoon a golden opportunity to visit another important temple.



Kiw Sur Ten and Kuang Sao Hin, Doi Lo District, Chiang Mai Province

Wat Phrathat Doi Saket…….. The temple at Doi Saket, located on a hill above the town, is similar to the Doi Suthep Temple, yet smaller in size. The entrance to the temple (as is the case at Doi Suthep) has a steep set of stairs leading to it. The most prominent feature of the Doi Saket Temple is the giant golden sitting Buddha (Phra Buddha Pathimakorn), visible from the road leading to the temple. The interior walls of the temple are decorated with modern spiritual murals, painted by Khun Chaiwat Wannanon. Normally modern art is not featured in Buddhist temples in Thailand, so this is somewhat unique to Doi Saket. There is also a monastic school located on the grounds of the temple.
The temple at Doi Saket is said to have been built in the year 1112. The legend is that the Lord Buddha had come to Doi Saket for a short time, and was visited by naka whom he offered his hair for the purpose of worship. Shortly after he is said to have disappeared, and this is the reason for the location of the temple.
At the time of this visit a new pagoda is under construction to house Buddha footprints formed in the rock nearby.



Wat Phrathat Doi Saket, Doi Saket District, Chiang Mai Province

Roadworks…….. With no more delay we think we can make good progress but there is a problem. Substantial road workings are underway upgrading the main Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai highway. Progress becomes painfully slow but I will be happy if I can reach the Phayao intersection at Mae Chedi in Wiang Pa Pao district, Chiang Rai province by 6pm. Accommodation at the intersection shows up on the searches and we're soon heading down the mountain, now free of roadworks towards Mae Chedi.
Known simple as H2O House the accommodation is small, I would call it a guesthouse with just a few rooms but modern and comfortable with a few personal touches. It will be fine for a stopover. Katoon is soon on the hunt for food. Neither of us have had lunch and bringing food and drink back to the room will save time.

H2O House, Mai Chedi, Wiang Pa Pao District, Chiang Rai Province

H2O and beer…….. The day has been interesting to say the least with literally no idea where we would end up. It would have ended reasonably well but by late afternoon I feel a cold coming on then after arrival at H2O it’s streaming. There’s another restless night in store, I’m afraid. Next Page.