Thursday 30 November 2017

Regret........This morning I don’t intend chastising Katoon for dragging her feet. If we don’t leave here today it wouldn’t bother me as all as the scenery is stunning and the conveniences top drawer. Phu Ruea was built for tourism but as yet is off the radar for international tour operators so few foreigners come here: Their loss my gain. But if it wasn’t for the resorts there’d be nothing here. The national park has brought in a wealth of other attractions created in the usual boastful but artistic way. However as I sit out on the verandah I’m reminded that another family reunion is planned for the evening and that we should depart.

Poinsettia Festival........Google Map Poinsettia is a well known plant species with red and green foliage popular in Christmas floral displays. I noted in a trip to Doi Tung at the end of last year that it grew well in upland regions of Thailand although it is native to Mexico. Here in Phu Ruea they are preparing for the 6th Poinsettia Festival. It is fitting that a floral display is representative of cultivation of a vast variety of flora that thrive in cooler conditions that are normal here. We just have to stop and look around before we depart. It’s another fine example of Thai creativity, a substantial garden devoted to the poinsettia attracting visitors from far and wide. What they find is a sea of red, around 100,000 specimens covering 5 rai (nearly 2 acres). I don’t think they’ll ever see such a display anywhere else. If you took the cost of one plant in the UK and tried to calculate the cost the result would be impressive.

Wat Somdet Phu Ruea Ming Muang........Google Map Before finally departing Phu Ruea there’s another attraction that’s worth visiting. Wat Somdet Phu Ruea Ming Muang can be seen on a hill above Phu Ruea and is a short drive from the town. It’s a temple with a viharn built of teak wood on a brick base, the carved teak panelling of Buddha and the serpent is exquisite and the polished stone Buddhas unbelievable. The temple is modern but a fine example of Thai religious art......more.

Huai Nam Man/Huai Krating........Google Map As we head down the valley along the 21 towards Loei town, there’s one more site worth visiting some 10 kilometres west of the town. Just a couple of kilometres left of the highway is Huai Krating, a reservoir in a secluded valley. The location initially causes confusion until I realise there are two locations on the reservoir. On Google map it’s listed as Huai Nam Man but in Thai it’s clearly Huai Krating. Whatever the name the description is the same, a tourist attraction with a difference. Arriving at the lakeside, I see a good number of bamboo rafts, some of which are out on the water. Pictures I saw earlier gave me the impression of bamboo huts in a resort but in fact they’re bamboo rafts for dining. For 350 baht you are towed out onto the water and food which is extra delivered for you. It looks amazing and popular particularly at weekends but I don’t have time to partake as I have plans for dining later......more. ......YouTube.

Chaopho Kut Pong and City Pillar Shrines........Google Map Arriving in Loei we head into the city and stop at the Chaopho Kut Pong and City Pillar Shrines located near the Kut Pong Public Par. The Chaopho Kut Pong shrine is highly respected by local people while the City Pillar Shrine was built in 1982 of golden shower wood. It’s elaborately carved at the top into a lotus shape gilded with gold leaf and lacquer......more.

Loei TAT and museum........Google Map Not far away left at the fountain is the Tourist Authority of Thailand office which is located in the former district office building in the centre of town; the building’s claim to fame being that the former King Bhumipol stayed here in 1955. To date I’ve never visited any attractions in Loei and this gives me the chance to put that right. TAT’s staff is most helpful as we put together a brief itinerary. It’s still early afternoon and there seems to be plenty of time. We then discover there is a museum on the 1st floor.
The museum in Loei is not registered as a national museum so doesn’t get the funding or choice of exhibits. The consequence is that while it does its best to cover the history and culture of the area, through pictures and narrative on wallboards with few exhibits, these do not include information in English. If I need to research the area further I need guidebooks. The only English is via a touch screen but its basic and there is little that I haven’t found out already. We can now head off with a shopping list but these are all temples......more.
Wat Si Bunruang........Google Map Wat Si Bunruang is located south of the town on the 2015 on the left past the evening market. As there is nothing here in English and little online except that it promotes education and merit making, I can quickly move onto the next.
Wat Si Sutthawat........Google Map Wat Si Sutthawat is located 2 kms north of the town off Wisutthitpep Road. It’s described as a Royal Temple so could refer to the kingdoms of Lan Xiang. As there is an important funeral taking place, it’s not the best time to start wandering about.

Wat Si Phum........Google Map Wat Si Phum is located on Phiphat Mongkhon Road connecting to highway 201. Described as a 100 year old temple it’s therefore in the modern era.
Still searching........The three temples visited have not turned up anything ancient that particularly interests me and has used up precious time when I had been searching for more evidence of Lan Xiang occupation which is known to exist. Katoon thinks there is an ancient site on the way back to Chiang Khan but all we seem to find is dead ends. Finally we get a lead.
Wat Sri Chan........Google Map Wat Sri Chan is located in tambon Na O, about 8kms north of Loei on a road to the right of the 201. This temple is significant but has received little attention, since in the grounds are wooden buildings and structures from the Lan Chang era. There is a toilet of French design and a museum containing a good quantity of antique and vintage items. There is also a room where a former head monk resided left exactly as it was when the monk passed away. The viharn has been renovated on the site of an original wooden structure.
With this data I collect I’m able to post something on Google map. It’s exactly what I was looking for but it’s come at a price. We’re running well behind time now.

From Wat Sri Chan we continue north back to Chiang Khan but we won’t be staying there. It’s just for some shopping I need. By the time that’s organised the light is fading. At Wat Tha Krok there is a huge crowd waiting for the cremation of the monk but we must head on to our final destination.
Pak Chom........Google Map Pak Chom is in the northeast corner of Loei province and is where Katoon has arranged to meet her brother: Its 40kms away, meaning more than 1 hour’s drive. It looks like a repeat of the Dan Sai situation developing. The road follows the Mekong River and initially there’s enough light to appreciate the size of this river still so far from the sea. Driving is not too difficult but the last 15 minutes is in darkness requiring some caution with some resurfacing work in progress but we manage to overshoot the target. At least our accommodation has been pre-booked. The sister/brother reunion takes place at the resort and not even stopping to store baggage we head straight out for dinner where we’re joined by other family members. To describe dinner as such totally misses the point: it’s more like a banquette as the food and beer just keeps coming. Later I’m shown the bill but don’t need to pay. If I did I’d be out of pocket by £25. Incredible! Back at the resort I have just enough in the tank to unpack. There won’t be any blog writing tonight....more....Next Page