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TOUR BLOG
DAY 1 - BANGKOK/PHETCHABUN, 18 November 2014 DAY 2 - PHETCHABUN/KHAO KHO, 19 November 2014 DAY 3 - KHAO KHO, 20 November 2014 DAY 4 - KHAO KHO, 21 November 2014 DAY 5 - KHAO KHO/LOM KAO, 22 November 2014 DAY 6 - LOM KAO, 23 November 2014 DAY 7 - LOM KAO/CHAT PRAKAN, 24 November 2014 DAY 8 - CHAT PRAKAN/NAN, 25 November 2014 DAY 9 - NAN, 26 November DAY 10 - NAN/PUA, 27 November DAY 11 - PUA, 28 November DAY 12 - PUA/THA WANG PHA, 29 November DAY 13 - THA WANG PHA/NAN, 30 November DAY 14 - NAN/PHRAE, 1 December 2014 DAY 15 - PHRAE/PHITSANULOK, 2 December 2014 DAY 16 - PHITSANULOK/BANGKOK, 3 December 2014 DAY 16 - CONCLUSIONDay 11 - Friday 28 November 2014, Pua
Furthest point.....As I start a new day I'm aware that this is the furthest point on this tour for a stopover. I'm now over 700 kilometres from Bangkok. Although a tour bus can handle that distance in one day, I've no intention of trying that. It's a lazy start to the day as I go through my normal routine. With very little to do in Pua; it's just a market town, my plans for this area involve returning to the mountains. The view from Rimdoi Resort is pleasant enough looking towards the mountains to the east, but I'm aware of more spectacular scenery once the mountains are reached. I'm on the road by 10.30 am and just feel the natural flavour of this tour is set to return.
The forest returns.....I've identified a circuit in the far northeastern sector of Nan province, adjacent to the Laotian border. I know by now of the testing road conditions in Thailand's northern forests. If I have a concern it's the distance around this loop. It just doesn't look to bad on the map, but I calculate it could involve a drive of 200 kilometres. As I head east into the mountains on the scenic route the valley floor closes in within just 10 kilometres. The road rises steadily at first but then merges into a long series of switch-back bends. The tree lined road doesn't offer a panoramic view, but it's clear that the distant hills are offering something of a wilderness landscape. As the road winds ever higher so do the views become ever more spectacular as the virtually endless landscape of peaks, ridges and valleys reveal themselves through the dense foliage.
Then the panorama does appear, as the road reaches the top of a ridge and follows it for some distance. This is surreal as normally the road will disappear into the next valley. Having a road follow a ridge like this with steep sides on either side of the road is an experience I've only managed before when hiking. Naturally the views are stunning and that's an understatement. All this forestry means only one thing. Right; there's a national park ahead. In this case Doi Phu Kha National Park and I soon stop at a small shrine to get my bearings. It's here that my initial plan changes. I'm told that after the next village, there is nothing for maybe two hours driving on difficult roads. When I explain where I'd like to head for later, I'm advised to postpone this trip until tomorrow and use a better route. Apparently, there is a weekend market at the border town of Chaloem Phra Kiat where Laotian vendors are allowed to cross and do business. That makes good sense to me and removes my main concern of the day. Nonetheless, I now enter the park and soon arrive at the park entrance. As this is a through road the park feed are only payable at the entrance which is off to the left. I'm not intending to stay, so press on. So far the photo opportunities have been limited but as the road nears the top of the pass, there is a rest area offering refreshments and OTOP local products. There is an office here for those who wish to stay in the park in tents. A number of recreational activities are on offer including rafting and there is the ever present opportunity to get close to nature and witness some unique features found in the park. However, I need to stop for lunch soon and the only place for miles around is the remote village of Bo Klua.
Bo Klua.....Bo Klua village lies near an intersection and is easily missed, tucked away off the main road. I will find it later, but now I find a restaurant that serves me perfectly well. I've now identified another route taking in the remote village of Santi Suk to the south, but first there is something in Bo Klua that's worth exploring. Klua in Thai means salt and here in this remote location is a salt pit. I soon find the signboard pointing to it but appreciate also it leads me into the village.
I'm often disappointed to find very little at some of these ancient sites, so I'm rather surprised to find the pits still in use, not only producing salt but serving as a tourist attraction in their own rite. As I arrive, the process of recovering salt water from deep underground using primitive mechanical methods; a bucket on a rope will do, is ongoing. I witness the urns where the sediment is allowed to settle before the water is pumped to holding tanks. Later it is ladled into pans where it is boiled over clay kilns leaving the salt crystals to be ladled into baskets to dry. I'm amazed! There is quite a cottage industry here. A selection of naturally produced items is available for sale including the salt and I easily find something that interests me. Running alongside the village is stream. The villagers even manage to sell pellets to feed the fish for 10 baht. Without realizing it, time has flown by. The trip to Santi Suk is also now well in doubt.
Back to Pua.....If I'd have stuck to my initial plan for today, I would have headed north from here through another major park, the Khun Nan National Park but time only permits taking a brief journey into park before heading back to Pua. With amazing photo opportunities still presenting themselves, I turn back towards Doi Phu Kha National Park unfortunately bypassing Santi Suk using a better but nevertheless longer route back to Pua. At 3.30 pm it's clear I'm not going to reach the town much before 5 pm even if I don't stop. At about half distance a new pagoda housing a seated Buddha is being constructed on a small hill. Yes, I do stop but not for long. The final section of road involves a descent to the valley floor but not before the road runs along another ridge but this time heavy earth-moving equipment is present upgrading the road. I instinctively glance at the time as if to reassure myself I will reach Pua by 5 pm, but there is another ritual I seem to be performing as I glance to my left and right. It's as though I know something's telling me to savour my last moments in an area of outstanding beauty. This could be the beginning of the end of the natural flavour of this tour. I roll into Pua just before 5 pm. There's just time now for a wash and brush up before dinner. I find a restaurant with a peaceful wooden veranda and order off the dinner menu, dishes no less interesting than I had yesterday. I'm really full as I head back to write up my notes. At least tomorrow my destination is more or less settled. I'm also inclined to remain at Rimdoi for a third night as there's no other practical destination in Nan province I should move to from here. I'm in no hurry to return to Bangkok.
Next Page.
Nan Province
Doi Phu Kha National Park View
Buddhist Shrine, Doi Phu Kha National Park
Doi Phu Kha National Park
Landoo Dao, Doi Phu Kha National Park
Rest Stop, Doi Phu Kha National Park
Altitude Marker,
Doi Phu Kha National Park View
Rest Stop Parking, Doi Phu Kha National Park
Salt Pits, Bo Klua
Salt Production, Bo Klua
Salt Production, Bo Klua
Bo Klua Village
Bo Klua Village Sign
Khun Nan National Park
Viewpoint Parking,
Doi Phu Kha National Park