Day 5 - Saturday 22 November 2014, Lom Kao

Goodbye, Khao Kho.....I'm awake at 7am again and spend the usual hour on my blog, but then there is a sense of urgency. I must move on; I've really spent too long in Khao Kho. I get some hot water to make a coffee and a pot noodle. Add a croissant to that, and I'm into packing and ready to go by 9 am. This earlier start makes all the difference and as I head north using the same route as yesterday I can complete some unfinished business.
B.N. Farm.....B.N. Farm was on my list yesterday when I ran out of time. I can't resist stopping here. As I drive down the access road, fruit trees unfamiliar to me appear to the left and right. As I pull into the car park I see this isn't a pick your own as I'm used to but there is a farm shop and a nursery. I guess by looking around you could spend an hour here, but I use less. I collect enough information to feature it later, then continue my journey. It's time to finally say farewell to Khao Kho. It's served me very well but Phetchabun province has so much more to offer, and I must reinforce the theme of this tour. I turn right onto route 12 (AH16) towards Lom Sak.
Nam Nao National Park.....I noticed yesterday that route 12 is being upgraded all along the section of road I used at least as far as the provincial border. Now I'm heading east, these upgrades continue as far as Lom Sak. Roads are always being upgraded or repaired, but this is a huge project. Road widening is the obvious intent but to do this in such mountainous terrain is quite a feat of engineering. I would be interested to know how many tons of earth and rock need to be moved while all along the route is spectacular scenery. It just goes on and on. A little after 11 am I pass through Lom Sak. After an unnecessary detour around the town I rejoin the 12 and head further east. It's now when the 'natural' theme of this tour really takes hold again.
I head back into the mountains. My first stop occurs soon after as the 12 crosses a ravine. It is a good photo opportunity since this type of bridge is rare in Thailand. Its concrete upper structure is supported by huge hard wood beams. I think why not use what is on your doorstep, and what a doorstep! As the 12 heads east and out of the province it has to cross the huge expanse of Nam Nao National Park, one of the largest in Thailand. The park checkpoint is further ahead where I learn that the park entrance is 21 kilometres ahead. What I will do when I get there I've no idea. Nevertheless, I press on. At least when I arrive I can have a comfort break. As parks go, this one conforms to the normal pattern. Most of the parks charge foreigners 200 baht tax while Thais pay 40 baht. I usually decline because to take advantage of what the park has to offer I would need to spend time there and get involved with physical activities such as trekking or cycling. Nevertheless, it is tempting to spend a night in the forest. Huts start at 1,000 baht/night and tents 250 baht. Everything can be arranged in the visitor centre inside the park. In the end I am not able to get consensus to make this work, so I inquire as to what else the park can offer. Inevitably there are natural features such as waterfalls and caves but despite being warned repeatedly, would I actually see a herd of elephants crossing the road in front of me? I guess it's got to be a waterfall then.
More natural features.....Sure, after 12 more kilometres there is a waterfall on the left: Two in fact. A signboard provides a diagram and distance to the falls. After being cooped up in the car for a while it's good to stretch the legs: They will be stretched more before too long. To reach either of the falls requires a trek of 1 kilometre over rough terrain. A sign describes the forest as mixed deciduous. Then the trail splits. I meet three Thais and instinctively ask if it's far to the falls. I can't get an answer. Although young, this group is in urgent need of losing weight. They didn't even make it! What chance for me? Well it is hot, but the sun struggles to penetrate the forest canopy. The steep rock climbs are a bit of a challenge, but I make it to the intersection. There I get a choice; turn left or right. To the left is Sai Thong Waterfall 2,375 metres, to the right Hao Sai Waterfall 120 metres. How many people would turn left? To get to Hao Sai still requires a stiff decent but at the base is a waterfall, 35 metres across by 20 metres drop. There is sufficient water cascading down to replenish a rock pool. It's early in the cool dry season in Thailand and the vegetation is still lush and green after the summer rains which won't fall again for another six months. Many of Thailand's watercourses will dry up before then. I head back to the intersection. I ponder the idea of a trek to Sai Thong, but I'm simple not prepared for it so it's back to the car park. What I've just managed to do has allowed me to put a tick against Nam Nao National Park.
Of course, I've only sampled it, but realistically there's not much more I can do except stay overnight, but the compromise is satisfactory. At this stage I've travelled some 90 kilometres since I left Khao Kho, but I carry on east where the park runs along the border with Chaiyaphum province until I reach a road junction. Keeping right will take me out of the province towards Chum Phae, but I turn left signposted Lom Khao.
Nam Nao small town.....I soon reach the small town of Nam Nao. It's 2 pm and lunch is well overdue. Without a cooked breakfast I'm happy to take in something more substantial. On my left a restaurant offers a BBQ, known to Thais as 'moo ghata'. This is a cook-it-yourself affair over a charcoal grill provided for the meat while warming a soup as well and the sauce is always delicious. This choice will cost me a full hour. At 3 pm I take in one more waterfall nearby, Nam Tok That Mog. It is approached though temple grounds. I'm told there is little water there. That's certainly true; it's just a trickle but what I hadn't expected was the sheer drop into a ravine. It's so deep I dare not look over the edge to see the bottom. It's time to head back.
Four hours in the forest.....I'm now around 100 kilometres from where I wish to stay tonight. So vast is Nam Nao National Park that I will spend most of this journey west skirting around its northern perimetre. It will be near dusk before I arrive. The journey through the park has been an adventure in itself. Now with the park to my left and seemingly impenetrable forest to my right I'm treated to spectacular views to the west and north. In the distance is the impressive Phu Kradung, an iconic landmark in Leoi province to the northeast. All the way the road twists and turns; I frequently have to override the automatic transmission to negotiate the hills and to overtake. It's an incredible four hours in the forest, but finally I reach a road junction and turn left towards Lom Khao and Lom Sak. Arriving at the former I take a right into the town. There is little I can see in the way of accommodation as I head past the market. Then on the far side of the town is a sign to a resort. It seems the only option, but I'm mighty relieved that it ticks all my boxes. I book for two nights..
Chompoo Resort.....Chompoo Resort is a small cluster of cabins which unlike at Khao Kho is tastefully constructed with all mod cons, including a small digital TV. There is no adjoining land with buildings. It seems the perfect spot for just relaxing and taking it easy. It actually seems a pity not to indulge in the tranquility, but the fact is most people only use it as a stopover because just a short distance away is Phu Hin Rong Kla and the last of the National Parks I will feature here. Then arguably the best known location in Phetchabun province is Phu Thap Boek right on the doorstep. This will feature in tomorrow's blog. Chompoo Resort has no restaurant but almost immediately I arrive at the resort and store my bags I head back to a restaurant I noticed just a kilometre back down the road. It's a fitting end to the day; amazing food, amazing value. After a bit of a lull in this tour yesterday, my batteries are fully charged ready to continue this tour.
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