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16 Day Tour, Natural Thailand - 18th November to 3rd December 2014
Thursday 20 November 2014, Khao Kho

Ban Hah Tit.....I'm awake at a more sensible 7am and finalise and edit my blog. I consume the last of the cake and extract a coffee from reception at Ban Hah Tit. This name apparently refers to all points of the compass; basically a panoramic view. This is certainly true but then all the resorts go to great lengths to perch their huts and bungalows precariously on the hillsides offering a room with a view. The room here has no aircon; I didn't even use the fan last night. In all other respects the accommodation can be classed as basic but acceptable. Nevertheless, it seems I'm moving on.
Moving On.....In the main on my tours I have had to select a base to work from. Logic suggests that this should continue but on the other hand the car could now be my base and I can stop whenever and wherever I please. This results in less travelling, but it also means more time consumed in finding accommodation. It's not always the case that you are happy with the first room you are offered. I'm aware of high demand at certain times creating a seller's market. On this occasion I am packed, and we'll just see how it goes. On departure the owner explains that the land around here is expensive. It's shot up in the last few years through tourism and the owner has a valuable nest egg. As an ex-soldier probably involved during the communist rebellion he was given land in gratitude of his services. This now serves him well.
Set Goals.....As I depart I've set myself a goal for the day. It seems I've nearly exhausted my stay in Khao Kho, and it's time to move to the next site. Due west is the provincial border with Phitsanulok and Thung Salaeng Luang National Park. However, this park is better accessed from the Phitsanulok side and there is only a minor entry point in this area. The road that approaches it therefore has no general access across the border. Nevertheless, there are a number of interesting sites around the loop road, and I'm off to check them out. As the park extends much further north I will have chance later to tick this box. By the time I set off its gone 10.30am. It seems it will be either an easy day or a very late one.
Khao Kho Palace.....I backtrack skirting around Khao Kho and turn west towards the park. The first site of interest is the King's palace sited on a hilltop. This is just one of the palaces the royal family owns dotted around the country together with substantial royal land, a situation that has divided opinion in Thailand. Presently there is nobody in residence and the people are free to take advantage of the magnificent views across Khao Kho. From here I press on until I effectively run out of road. I've been following the signs for Kaeng (rapids) Bang Rachan.
Keang Bang Rachan.....I consider stopping for lunch, but it's still a bit early, only just midday. I'll visit the rapids first, but I need to negotiate a dirt road. It's ok and I pull into a parking area. It's not deserted, but there are no tourists. As I approach a small hut I wonder what activity is offered here or is it like Laos with a ticket seller sat on a plastic chair just about everywhere? Well it's the former as I gaze down at the shallow boats or punts that are available to visitors. Below me are the rapids but at the head of these is calm water fed by a river maybe some 20 yards across. I am offered a brochure, but there is no hard sell. I'm free to do as I please. Yet I'm intrigued by what I see on the sign boards. In this age of fast computers and ever expanding technology it's often easy to lose track of one's natural roots. It's at places like this that one can reconnect if only briefly.
As I learnt back in Phetchabun the forests around here are rich in fauna and flora. It's hard to believe that wild elephants and tigers live in these forests but for a visitor like me much smaller creatures are all I'm likely to see. The office has a catalog of butterfly species; the signboard mentions exotic birds and there are even freshwater jellyfish in the river. I just have to inquire what is on offer here. The guide explains that I should take the boat up river where there is a natural rock ledge where exotic butterflies like to congregate. Anything more will be a bonus. The trip on the placid water will be for 2 kilometres upriver. All I need is a hat, a life preserver, a boat and a man with a paddle. He wants 400 baht but when I offer him 300 he seems quite happy. So 'Natural Thailand' here we come! Underway, it does seem strange as the sounds are totally unfamiliar. No road traffic noise, no general din amongst the organized chaos of daily life; just the occasional swish of a paddle amid the bird calls and noises of forest creatures. The forest canopy sits high above the still water. You can't replicate this in any theme park. This is exactly as it says on the tin. Just so natural! Suddenly out pops a fish eagle, while other bird species flit around the canopy. Butterflies and dragonflies skim over the water in a ceremonial dance until the rock pool is reached. Some ten minutes are spent amongst the multitude of butterflies. The guide on the other hand is preoccupied with something he's seen in the water. Having deposited his passengers he skirts around the rocky outcrop retrieving something from the water. It's a wounded bird. He deposits it in the boat. It will travel back with us to base. From my limited knowledge of birds it's a ringed dove. This gesture will be strange to many people in this often cruel world. I inquire as to what will happen to the dove which clearly cannot fly. The reply confirms that it will be taken good care of. Just wonderful! On the way back the guide points out a hornet's nest high in a bare leafed tree. I'm glad it's way up there out of the way as I'm told a sting can be fatal. In another tree is a bird of prey. Near the starting point is a small temple with access to the river bank. The guide parks up and for a donation fetches some fish food. It is a Thai custom to feed temple fish. It helps the temple of course and feeding the fish brings these magnificent red and gold carp to the surface where they jostle to be served. In Buddhist culture feeding the carp also has spiritual significance. It seems to be a win-win situation. Back at the car park I settle up with the guide then after discussions with a colleague he disappears on a motorbike bird in hand. It is clearly important to him to get this creature some care and attention. It's still too early not to expect further custom but Katoon informs me that tomorrow approaching the weekend he is fully booked with a party of 20 taking this boat trip. There is something else that Katoon learns out of conversation during the trip. The area was a communist stronghold, and it appears that once the fighting had ended many communist soldiers surrendered but chose to remain in the area. Some are fishermen on this stretch of water known as the River Khek. The Khek also forms the border here with Phitsanulok.
Naam Tok Si Dit.....This excursion estimated to take an hour has actually taken two. Now it really is time for lunch. That uses up another half hour, and I'm starting to think about my accommodation for the night. I head on back towards Khao Kho. On my list for today is Si Dit Waterfall. This is off to the left. The area is managed by the military and there is a small fee to pay. As waterfalls go I've seen a lot worse but something else grabs my attention. Off to the left is a trail and with no English signs to guide me I've no way of knowing where it leads. Even Katoon doesn't know from the sign she's read. There is a small presence of two soldiers. Their sole purpose these days seems to act as lifeguards should visitors get into difficulty in deeper water while swimming. It wasn't always this way. The trail leads through bamboo thickets then on to a cluster of bamboo shelters or huts in front of which is what remains of a waterwheel. It's clear to me given the channels fashioned into the hillside and the apparatus that remains that corn or rice was processed through pounding. However there is clearly something more to this, given this remote location. Then as before there is an explanation. These huts were used by the communists during the uprising.
Calling it a day.....I head back towards Khao Kho and I have to make a decision about accommodation. I am inclined to call it an easy day rather than push it further. Then at about 4.30pm I'm back where I started. I could go back to Ban Hah Tit, but instinctively I look around before deciding. This proves to be a bit of a chore as accommodation in Khao Kho leans towards the high end of the market. Basically you are paying for the views. Eventually I end up just 50 yards from Ban Hah Tit and settle in. I'm happy with a shorter day and order dinner which I consume on the terrace.
Kularbdoi Resort.....This name translates as Rose Hill, a resort located to the left of Ban Hah Tit. The question has already been asked why did I change rooms? You will only find the answer here! Basically it's down to price. It was offered at 500 baht on the understanding I stayed for two nights. Apart from that it is a lot more spacious and has a table I can use for my computer and to eat dinner. Normally it lives outside on the terrace. Hot water is fed from a boiler rather than an electric shower. This gives abundant hot water. I'm clearly interested to know if staying for 2 nights works better but my expected stay in Phetchabun province is now likely to extend to 6 nights.
Next Page.

Phetchabun Province
Khao Kho Palace


View from Khao Kho Palace




Keang Bang Rachan







Natural Keang Bang Rachan


Hornets nest, Keang Bang Rachan


River traffic, Keang Bang Rachan


Passion fruit cultivation, Keang Bang Rachan


Naam Tok Si Dit


Old Water Wheel, Naam Tok Si Dit


Hut used by Communist Part,
Naam Tok Si Dit