Wednesday 12 March 2014

Two weeks and counting..... Today I wake up no less lethargic than over the last few days as I realise that it's now been two weeks since I arrived in Laos. It's also just two weeks to my return to the UK. There are no longer restrictions on my returning to Thailand without a visa, but that event is now confirmed for Friday as I order a through bus to Udon Thani.
Caves, Caves and more Caves..... It may sound strange but with all the caves around Vang Vieng, I've yet to enter one of them, but I still feel obliged to record their existence for reference. Taking only a snack breakfast and coffee I make an earlier start. I'm headed towards arguably the most popular site around Vang Vieng and on the way there will be no shortage of caves.
On this occasion I need to cross the river on the plank bridge accessed by the dirt road running past Vieng Thara Guesthouse. On the river bank are those ridiculously priced resorts I mentioned earlier but having cleared the bridge, it is far from luxurious here, and I'm in for another bone shaking ride. Regarding cave exploring, those who have read other chapters of my website will understand what appeals to me, and it's not caves. In addition, I've been warned that most of the caves in the dry season are not worth visiting. Their main attraction is the cool rock pools that are so inviting and supposedly teaming with fish. For most, there are no fish and very little water. That doesn't apply to my selected destination today. As I head along the dirt road the various caves are advertised left and right. My only interest in them is in recording their location. It's not difficult. I identify five before I reach my destination. The list that follows is in order of travel. I haven’t attempted to log their distances from the main track, but they're all within 10 km of Vang Vieng.
1) Pha Daeng Jin Naly Cave (right) - actually two caves with views, crystal clear water and fish
2) Khan Kham Cave (right) - contains a Buddha image
3) Peung Kham (Bee) Cave (left) - with swimming pool
4) Num Borkeo Cave (left) - with swimming pool and fish
5) Sok Say Cave (left)
6) Pou Kham Cave (right) - Blue Lagoon.
Blue Lagoon..... On arriving at Blue Lagoon, I find the pinnacle in recreation and leisure for an awful long way around. When I first heard the name I thought it was the name of a resort but quite simply it is what it says on the tin. There is something unnatural about it though as the lagoon is a deep canal probably some 25 feet across when you would expect a fast flowing gravel bed stream. It was probably cut out as part of the irrigation network but here in the dry season it is an oasis dragging visitors from far and wide to bathe in the cool blue waters. More than that, there are rope wires and diving platforms while all around there are native fish. Understandably, there are restaurants for refreshments, but everything blends well into the natural surroundings. I'm inclined to stay here all day. It's just not the place to include on a whistle-stop tour.
Pou Kham Cave..... Finally, before I take the plunge I'm going to review the Pou Kham Cave. It's no less easy to visit than many of the other dry caves around, requiring quite a climb without any aids except bamboo handrails. At the base you are able to rent headlights to explore the inner caverns, and they recommend employing a guide. I do neither. What I have underestimated is the climb, but it's not too difficult if you're reasonably fit. On reaching the cave entrance there is a welcome blast of cool air to greet the visitor. The primary inner cavern is huge and contains all the usual geological features one would expect from a limestone cave. I don't seem to be alone in exploring this massive cavern but going further into its depths is really unnecessary unless you're a cave freak. In making it up here I'm hoping that it will be a sort of template for all the other caves around here rendering it unnecessary to explore the others. I won't know the answer to that as in terms of what I'd ever hoped to achieve in Vang Vieng, I'm more than satisfied. Before I get into deep water I'm approached by a couple of students from Vientiane eager to conduct a survey for their studies. They want to know how I feel about this place. I'm happy to tell them.
In Deep Water..... As I relax on the bank of the lagoon it occurs to me that this is not the place for small children but neither do I see any. There are a high proportion of young adults here and precisely why this area is a magnet for this generation is not absolutely clear, but it's been this way for some time. When I consider reviewing this tour I will look into this aspect in more detail but as for the here, and now I get into deep water on a couple of occasions and very nice it is too! I set myself up for a reluctant departure but in the number of visitors arriving here has multiplied considerably since I arrived. Four hours as probably about right and for once I seem to have kept the best till last, but it's not clear how I will spend my last day here.
A Taste of Culture..... Heading back to Vang Vieng you will see an ECO project on a smallholding designed to give the younger generation an insight into crop production and local building techniques. Is this for you? I'm fascinated how young minds can be stimulated by something I do in the UK every day; and they do it for FREE! Wow! Finally, what is more unusual is the local weaving that occupies a lot of the villagers' time. It's certainly worth a stop to look.
Alternate culture..... When you read the guides relating to the development of Vang Vieng in recent years you can easily be put off. The most prominent guide online says this:
'Originally opened up by hedonistic backpackers, the atmosphere of the town itself is one of lethargy by day and debauchery by night: tourists sprawl out in the pillow-filled restaurants, termed 'TV Bars', watching re-runs of US sitcoms, Friends and Family Guy episodes until the sun goes down, and then party heavily until the early hours.'
While this scene is definitely not for me, neither do I want to read this portrayal of Vang Vieng as typical of what this town offers. As I ride around the riverside bars in early evening those bars certainly still exist, but the fact is I've been here five days, and I've just located where they are tucked away along a dusty road near the night market. In a nutshell, while Vang Vieng is still a magnet for the youth, that hardly impinges on what this town has to offer, and I've never witnessed or been put out by any activity those misguided guides portray. Just come here and enjoy it, whatever your background.
Mixed grill..... Back near the guesthouse I'm told there is a restaurant offering a Korean style grill so popular all over Thailand where it is known as 'moo yang gowlee'. It's a welcome change from my usual fare. Pity about the lack of seafood though! Whatever happens tomorrow I don't think there will be any more caves.
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