Tuesday 11 March 2014

Comfortable…….If ever there was a place to unwind it is Vang Vieng or so it appears to my senses. With a continued rest break here I'm in a curious mood. As I awake it's nearly 8 am yet still I gaze at the ceiling with no care in the world. It's what you call a 'lie in'. By the time I'm in any mood for adventure it's well past breakfast time for most and whatever I decide to eat it may well be called early lunch. I pick up the motorbike again and stop for that 'early lunch' adding a late lunch as a takeaway. Now I can finally hit the road.
Unnatural..... Of course, I'm heading off for natural surrounding but wait a minute! Just because of the splendor of Thailand and Cambodia's religious heritage that does not mean Laos has none. The most iconic is Vat Phou in Champasak province but elsewhere Buddhism clings on by more than finger nails. I stop just on the outskirts of town and visit two temples where the beliefs are just as relevant to local people as anywhere else.
Vat Kang…….Vat Kang is located on the first road off the highway at the north end of town not far from the night market. It is unremarkable except for construction materials used which utilise river stone that continues to be in use for foundations of houses. Otherwise, it consists of the usual viharn housing the Buddha image, a prayer hall and monks' quarters in Theravada Buddhist style. This is one of the older temples.
Vat Mahrathat..... Just a few hundred metres along the road out of town is Vat Mahrathat which is a more significant temple complex as it offers teaching for novice monks. This complex is constructed in traditional style and contains a chedi (that) without decoration. These structures indicate the site of the remains of monks or other persons of high status.
Frustrating..... I head out of town north on route 13. Several caves are listed on my local map, but I've no idea how far they are from Vang Vieng. It's rather frustrating that even here in a tourist area there is a dire lack of suitable signage. If Laos wishes to boost tourism they can make a great start in this area which wouldn't cost the earth. I'm looking for a cave or caves marked on my map. Somebody mentions it's just a kilometre past the turning to the river I used yesterday. After several kilometres I ask again. Oh! It's another 4 kilometres. At least 4 kilometres further on I'm told it's another 3 villages (3 kilometres). Finally, as I'm virtually on top of the turning I see a board and head for the river. Over the plank bridge the dirt road splits left and right. Left is marked Kiew Cave, 500 metres, right is marked Phathao Cave, 400 metres. Easy now right? Wrong! As I cover the necessary distances there are no caves in sight. I ask around, and the answer is always the same – follow the track. But these marked caves are just not going to be found. I'm so frustrated I head back to the main road in disgust.
I'm sure it's this way!.... I've no option but to head for the principal cave in the area, Tham Chang (Elephant Cave). I'm hoping for better luck now being at least 15 kilometres from Vang Vieng. Is this a wild goose chase? I ask again for directions. Again I'm supposedly on the right track; it's just a little further. The local who gave me the last direction follows me and overtakes pointing to the left. Yes, it's another dirt road, but there's no sign that I can see to tell me what lies at the end of the track but of course there's another parking area and plank bridge. It's here I get a stroke of luck which will make my day.
Tham Nam (Water Cave)..... Initially there is little sign of activity around but soon a songtheaw pulls up, and the occupants pile out. They are from Finland and have chartered the truck for the afternoon. Curiously, nobody seems to mind as I tag along and in fact the guide seems to appreciate some assistance with the language. From the elephant temple it's a walk through the dry paddies to the Cave. It's only here that I begin to connect with what I've read. This is a famous site for tubing (riding inflated tires).
Of course these tubes are popular at beach locations in Thailand such as Cha-Am but here they are often used for shooting fast-water. Today there is none of that, but there is the cave.
Overlooking the cave I sit for lunch and a beer. I'm again in conversation with Europeans, but soon we will not be alone as more trucks and motorbikes pull up. The next phase is interesting and follows what I have read to the T. The new arrivals strip off to the basics and don headlights. They are then issued with tubes and one by one disappear into the flooded cave guided by ropes. We sit and stare not wishing to follow, but the guide informs me that I'm welcome to have a swim without charge. It's too good to turn down. I'm soon in the cool water and immerse myself deeper while fish peck at dry skin on my feet. This only encourages me to swim and with no timetable to work to I'm going to make the most of it. It's the most enjoyable feeling I've had since snorkeling in Krabi. When I eventually force myself out of the water I feel totally refreshed as if someone had recharged my batteries. The tubers return in groups, but the Fins seem in no hurry. It's one of those places you could sit all day.
Tham Hoy (Shell Cave)..... The small group eventually moves on, but it's not back towards the river. Instead, there's a trek around the base of the mountain through marginal land unsuitable for growing rice. However, as well as jungle flora there are some useful trees yielding limes and other fruit while for the future there are young teak trees. Soon another cave comes into view, this one hardly submerged. More typically, this cave is situated some way up the mountain face. A ticket collector sleeps in a shelter on matting; we don't need to disturb him. Leaving Tham Hoy behind, the group members emerge from the scrub and head back across parched rice paddies towards the river to rejoin their transport. I tip the guide; it's doubtful I would have found my way around the loop without him. In fact, he also solves the mystery of the missing caves. There are closed. If I had continued along the dirt road, I described earlier, I would still have ended up at the Elephant Cave as is proven by some recent arrivals for tubing. The trekking loop here is probably 3 kilometres long and with the bathe in the mountain pool this has made this day well worthwhile, and interestingly I'm sweating a lot less. Wonderful!
Viewpoint..... Before I take my leave the guide points out that there is a viewpoint a further 2 kilometres up the road. He's right; there are some magnificent views across the river towards the towering karst rock stacks. As I head back to Vang Vieng I can, at last, give the actual distance of the Elephant Cave which according to all local sources is between 1 and 16 kilometres. It's actually 20 kilometres according to the road sign so you read it here first right? As I head back into town I collect some fruit from the market to consume later, but I've settled into a routine of eggs and bacon for breakfast, filled rolls for lunch and rice in the evening. Having underestimated the attraction of Elephant Cave, I'm now in for a third day of cave hunting tomorrow, and it promises to be just as good.
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