Saturday 8 March 2014

Relief and regret..... As I prepare to leave Xieng Khouang province I'm somewhat relieved to be heading to Vang Vieng which is by contrast a tourist friendly town in an area of natural beauty. The most challenging part of this tour is over but that does not mean I have no regrets. Xieng Khouang has stimulated the senses in a way that few other destinations have. At 7.30 am I'm packed and ready.
Phonsavan departure..... The ticket price to Vang Vieng includes transport to the van station but on arrival the long distance minivan looks far from comfortable and on this occasion I won't be the only foreigner; in fact there will be an even split of Westerners to locals. I will have chance to chat to while the time away. It will be a six-hour journey through difficult terrain. Initially the road runs west. It takes over three hours through the mountains to clear Xieng Khouang province and eastern Louang Prabang province before the road splits, the southern fork heading for Vientiane via Vang Vieng. It's worth a word about the terrain up to this point as it closely resembles the ongoing route to Louang Prabang itself. The mountainous region of northern Laos is vast and what one sees in the Alps for example with towering peaks lining fertile valleys is not the norm here. In fact there are very few fertile valleys; Phonsavan being one exception which is why it attracted the attention of the US Air Force. The norm is that valley bottoms are uninhabitable as there is no space to cultivate crops. In consequence hill-tribe villages cling to mountain tops where access between the many valleys is much easier. The road of course does the same creating a permanent panorama of tropical rain forest. Unfortunately, at this time of year in the dry season these majestic peaks are covered in a heat haze and are less attractive. Just after midday the van heads south towards Vang Vieng along the course of the River Song. It's time for a break for lunch.
Vientiane Province..... It's a bit confusing, but the next province is Vientiane not to be confused with Vientiane Prefecture where the capital city is located and administered separately. The provincial capital is Vang Vieng, and it's not at all what you'd expect from a provincial capital. I must have talked too much with an Italian couple sat next to me as I hardly noticed we had emerged into the Song Valley and comparative civilization. The valley is not broad but for much of its length it's a few kilometres wide, at least, and this allows fairly easy passage. It also allows much improved subsistence farming but in any case Vang Vieng has another product to offer which is vitally important to the province, tourism. While the van makes good progress now, the view has changed as the karst rock formations rise from the valley floor, the passage of the river ever present. The van soon reaches Vang Vieng and pulls into the bus (van) station.
Vang Vieng..... It's now a question of finding accommodation but in the first instance the foreigners pile into a songtheaw (converted pick-up truck) which heads into town. Each has his/her own idea about accommodation, but I'm not going to follow the crowd on this occasion. As I near the river there is no shortage of accommodation. It doesn't take long to understand the role of Vang Vieng in Laos’ economy, and it could not be more at odds with my point of origin today. This is truly a travelers paradise acting as a magnet for international tourism. It's much bigger than I expected but have they overdone it?
Vieng Thara Guesthouse..... When I'm dropped off on a dusty track near the river, I instinctively check accommodation left and right. The songtheaw driver really doesn't know how much the accommodation is here. Perhaps there are just too many options. But I suddenly get a flavour of this place when the price quoted is in dollars and in three digits at that. When I'm told that these are full I'm in disbelief. Are they trying to sell sand to the Arabs or ice to Eskimos? What humans will spend their money on sometimes, just amazes me. I'm in for the usual trek around, but this is not Krabi. Amidst the sandcastles and icebergs common sense prevails and just yards away, a guesthouse offers me a room at a price which is the lowest since I started this website. It is just a fan room, but the evenings here are comfortable, certainly below 20c. I'm happy with the room offering me the two most essential requisites; a hot shower and an internet connection. Oh yes; throw in a comfortable bed on which I soon fall asleep. Around six, I look for something to eat. There's plenty of choice. I get the feeling I'm going to settle in here much easier than at Phonsavan. It starts with the best night's sleep I've had in weeks.
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