Day 7, Monday 28 October 2013 - Pantai Cenang

Machinchang Cambrian Geoforest Park..... It has rained in the night, but now it's warm with broken cloud. I add more to my blog relating to yesterday's activities, but I'm aware this is my last full day in Langkawi. I don't know whether it's the fresh air or what, but I'm struggling to wake before 8 am here in Langkawi. Despite this, there should be no interruptions today and I can get away by mid-morning. I'm confining my efforts to Machinchang Cambrian Geoforest Park to the west and north of the island. From my limited knowledge of the Cambrian Period I understand that granite, a very ancient rock was formed. It is present in the jagged peaks of this park. I head north, skirting the airport as I did on my arrival here. I will follow that route into the park through Pantai Kok and beyond. This time it's done at a more leisurely pace, so I can identify such features as Telaga Habour Park, offering magnificent views out to sea, and Perdana Quay.
Left at the T-junction is Pantai Kok beach, a small but deserted stretch of sand, at the end of which is a slip road leading to a group of restaurants. Barely midday, I wander into the only one that seems to be open, but there are two options, self-service or a better laid out serviced area with menu. The self-service area contains lidded dishes of seafoods, chicken and vegetables. I see the fish curry looks nice and I'm told to help myself. It works for me despite some foreigners turning up in the services section. As just about everywhere else on the island, everybody speaks some English if not Thai. With an iced coffee I'm more than sustained as I head off into the park.
Langkawi Cable Car..... As mentioned, this park contains some impressive peaks impossible to access by road as at Gunang Raya. Just a few kilometres into the park the cable car built to reach the summit of Gunung Machinchang is quite impressive. As I think back to the Penang cable car, this appears in a different league. It's the same price though, 30 Ringgit. At the base is the Oriental Village. This houses souvenir shops, restaurants, a food hall and even a small geological display. Other attractions include horse carriage and elephant rides. It's a bit over the top I think but seems very popular and finances the park's facilities which are generally free.
Seven Wells Waterfall..... From here I head a few kilometres further into the mountains reaching the Seven Wells Waterfall. They charge me 1 ringgit to park the motorbike explaining it's about a 10-minute walk to the falls. From a cluster of small shops, a roadway ascends up to the falls, but it's quite steep. It would be better to use the concrete stairway, but the climb of 242 metres is certainly worth it with the waterfall over 200 metres of vertical drop. What's remarkable is there are no park fees despite a lot of effort in building the steps, rest areas, seating and toilets. The base of the falls though is only half the attraction. Concerned about the distance to the seven wells I read a sign which informs of another 238 metres to the top. OK I'm halfway, another 10 to 15 minutes should do it. This is good exercise for anyone. The seven wells are at the top of the falls and consists of rock pools carved out of the granite by water erosion. Nearly 500 metres below, I left a towel and shorts in the storage space under my seat. Big mistake! The pools are ideal to just chill off especially after the climb. A number of people have made the effort up here, but it's not overcrowded. One could easily take a packed lunch and spend the afternoon here. There is even a toilet block for changing: Most impressive. As it is, I devote just 30 minutes and head back down. I want to make it around to the north of the park.
Detai Bay..... I head back down to Pantai Kok and continue with a left turn towards Detai Bay. Just a few kilometres along this road is the crocodile farm: A breeding centre for the trade in skins. I understand there are around 1,000 crocodiles here of various species. Heading on, I reach the northern shoreline, but there are no sandy beaches here. There is just a pebble beach and to the left the Temurun Waterfall, the highest on the island. It's just 5 minutes from the road and gazing up at this waterfall brings home the fact that there is little margin between the towering mountains above and the ocean below.
As I head on towards Datai Bay there is a road closure. That may be because of a rock fall, but it is the end of the road for me and the end of my tour of Langkawi Island. It's now 5 pm. As a finale I try to locate another feature known as the 'field of burnt rice'. This is yet another example of poor sign boarding. I must have passed it. Despite the helpful nature of the folk here I don't see why they have to bear the burden of being tourist guides. It will do for another time. I want to get back to Cenang well before dark and do what many have been doing all along. I'll take a swim on Cenang Beach. As light fades, I return to my usual restaurant for dinner. Returning to Cenang Valley Inn I find the owner still hasn't cleaned the room, but there is a fresh towel. Luckily I've purchased water and 3 in 1 coffee for the morning and still have the kettle.
Reflections..... It's time to reflect on my stay here. The fact that I extended it for an extra night must mean something. Was it the cheap beer, good food, beautiful island scenery? Yes, all these, but it's also about cost of living. Accommodation, transport and food are all higher here than in Thailand but over the last couple of days I've avoided its excesses and kept within my budget for Malaysia. Renting the motorbike was a good decision. It seemed expensive, but it's saved me pounds and the Honda auto quite new, one of the best I have rented. Eating on the road has also helped and I've been impressed by the friendliness of local people. Muslims in my country get a bad press, but I've had no issues here. The main problem for Langkawi now is that it may expand to the point that its mystical beauty is swamped by mass tourism: The airport is so convenient. Right now it's off season and a number of locations remain undisturbed, but soon the island will be packed. What will they be like then? As a convenience to me, I'm happy to return to Langkawi and just maybe then I'll find out!
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