Day 13, Sunday 3 November 2013 - Koh Kradan

Winding down..... Any thoughts that the final full day of this tour would be an anti-climax are condemned solely on the grounds of location. From my position on the verandah of my bungalow there are no sea views, but tranquility is all around. It's not necessary to move an inch, but I do eventually order two eggs and toast for breakfast. I also get to chat with Wally who set this place up thirteen years ago, turning virgin jungle into a workable resort. For power, he installed a diesel generator, although that wouldn't look out of place on a fairground and is consequently rather noisy. Water comes from an underground well and he has set up satellite TV and internet links. None of these things grow on trees around here, so it's a pretty darn good effort requiring some technical skills. For more information call Nok on 0066 895 872 409. It's not until midday that I decide to walk to the beach back along the forest track.
Day trippers..... Remembering how quiet is was landing here late yesterday afternoon, I get quite a surprise when I see the beach area teeming with activity. As well as rua hang yao there are speedboats and a twin-Decker lined up on the beach having deposited their passengers on Koh Kradan's coral sands. I shouldn't be so surprised. From the island there are almost uninterrupted features creating a magical panorama. To the extreme left is Koh Lanta and several small islands mostly rock stacks then to the centre left is the majestic Koh Muk. At the centre is the Trang coastline. To the centre right is Koh Libong and to the extreme right, continuation of the main coastline. The clear waters are teeming with fish, the tropical vegetation extending right down to the shoreline. Along the beach, day-trippers from various locations enjoy this island paradise, among them small children creating quite a family atmosphere. There are even BBQs set up for the guests. Some of the boats are recalling their passengers. The twin-Decker, being larger is moored further off the beach, its passengers needing to swim with life jackets to the stern, but it's probably only chest high in water.
More snorkeling..... I've come to the beach having borrowed a mask and flippers, but the tide is still quite high and the reefs in deeper water. I've not yet mastered the art of snorkeling having had a number of issues, so deeper water snorkeling is not on the agenda at present. Besides, its time for lunch. I head back to Paradise Lost where I eat a big meal regardless of the cost. I use this time to upload some work on the internet and bring myself up to date with the latest news. Now, well into the afternoon, I return to the beach. It has now been transformed back to its state of tranquility. All the day-trippers have left. Not just that, the tide is now well out opening the door for good snorkeling. However, despite being much happier with my breathing, having replaced the tube, I've now ended up with a mask that's filling with water. I'm not getting too much luck, but actually anything here is a bonus and I don't have to work hard.
The waters are teeming with brightly coloured fish of many species; just immersing the mask underwater is enough. Still only familiar with picture-book images I've added parrot fish to my list. I notice different behavioral patterns between the species, some swim in shoals, others browsing individually. Around a black anemone with light blue tips swims a small fish with similar markings. Each has its own place in this fragile environment. Despite my appetite for more, I have to call it a day.
Reflections..... As dusk fall a crescendo of whistling comes from the forest, I guess from tree frogs, After my huge lunch, I just use up some remaining snack food. I sit on the verandah soaking up the night air and reflecting on my stay here. It certainly won't be forgotten!
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