Day 6, Sunday 24th February - Siem Reap

Anchor Wat Historical Park introduction..... This morning I have arranged with the tuk tuk driver to pick me up at 8.30 am. Before that I need to pack, have breakfast and check out of Baca Villa. I will be staying in town tonight. The two locations I've selected so far have not been to my liking involving me with unnecessary cost. As I check out I find I've been charged for the American breakfast I had yesterday. Apparently 'breakfast included' means a bread roll butter and jam only. Also I will later learn that the transport ordered for me is well overpriced. Finally, Baca Villa will only accept cash as, so I've learnt, does the ticket office at the Park entrance. That means a visit to an ATM. At last, I arrive at the Park itself. The ticket issuing procedure is well organized. As at immigration booths, your photograph is taken and here printed on your entrance ticket. I'm now ready to 'rock and roll'.
Cautious Start..... Overnight I've had another bout of diarrhea, thankfully quite mild and clear by mid-morning. However, before the day is out I will feel 'constipated'. This condition is brought on by enduring expectation followed by sudden relief. I am, in fact referring to my visit to Anchor Wat Historical Park. Being the climax of my visit to Cambodia, expectations are running high. Indeed, in terms of the grandeur, historical significance and sheer scale of this site it is impossible to be disappointed yet by late afternoon, a retreat from the heat, the dust and the maddening crowd of tourists is most certainly welcome.
I'm guided around the principal sites, dropped off and picked up at various locations. My intention is to keep my visits brief, refrain from clambering over the vast structures and move on quickly from one site to another after taking photographs. Wrong again! I'm totally restricted by the mass of humanity that has poured into the site. Worse than that, I am totally restricted from taking clear views of key locations. It's very frustrating as I bare this in mind as to further plans. I clear the main complex of Angkor Thom well before lunch and add another couple of sites to the east. I've considered taking a snack lunch but only arrive with a flask of cold water. The driver says he will stop for lunch at a restaurant. It is his choice, not mine. Typically, I'm met with over-enthusiastic female ushers who practically heard me to a table. A hot towel is thrust at me with a napkin followed by the menu ridiculously overpriced. The ushers disappear and so do I, throwing the situation into confusion. I will decide where I eat. Fact is, it's hot and I'm not that hungry. As I wander off, the ushers rush after me explaining that the driver is having lunch here. I sense a conspiracy and simply nod that it's up to him and me as well. As it turns out there are a number of restaurants within the park all overpriced, but thankfully a few residents offer cold drinks and snacks. The close attention of persistent young children aside I use this as a photo opportunity. The afternoon now is largely taken up by the visit to Prasat Angkor Wat itself.
Restricted..... If I restrict my Park visit to just one day I am mindful of the fact that I cannot possibly see all that lies within the park itself, let alone what exists in the surrounding area. Of the 45 listed sites within the Park, I will only manage to visit 11 today that I can confirm, although there are sightings of others. I need to assess whether the principal objectives of my visit to Angkor Wat have been met. This can only be established through some knowledge of the site itself. This includes 1) Knowing the most important and prestigious sites 2) Understanding the Age of Angkor timeline (effectively over 5 centuries) and 3) Understanding the kingdoms, style and religion of the whole period. The answer to 1) is 'yes', 2) and 3) 'only partially'. Angkor Wat itself dates from 1150, well into the fourth century of the Age of Angkor and Bayon even later. Naturally the most impressive structures were built later in the Age, but that doesn't mean the smaller, earlier structures are less significant historically. Unfortunately, most of the earlier structures are scattered around over a large area. Many would have to be included in a separate tour. I consider this situation. It's not as if I will never return to Siem Reap again. This city is still within an easy day's reach of Bangkok and is ideal for a visa extension.
I'm calling it a day for now but the sites I visited today are dealt with in more detail on another page. These are: In Angkor Thom - the south gate, Bayon, Baphuon, Terrace of the Elephants, Phimeanakas, Terrace of the Leper King and Tep Pranam. To the east and south of Angkor Tom – Ta Keo, Ta Phrom, Sras Srang, Prasat Kravan and Angkor Wat itself.
Ancient Angkor Villa in paradise..... Ancient Angkor Villa in paradise..... The reality of travelling independently is in facing the 'ups and downs'. Independent travel can be rewarding and cheap compared with organised tours. This tour is typical of that, but it's taken till now to really compensate me for the 'downs'. I finally settle with my tuk-tuk driver and he asks about the morning. I tell him I'm staying in town. I'm not lying, but I wouldn't use him again. I retreat thankfully into Ancient Angkor Villa. This selection was to my liking yesterday and by the evening I'm settled in. As I pop out for dinner I find a good selection of restaurants offering food of many styles, wholesome, tasty and cheap. I have to admit my impression of Cambodia before today was in crisis. Within 24 hours it will have completely changed. I purchase a bottle of white rum at half the price I would normally expect to pay and settle down to watch the Man. City v Chelsea game. All seems right with the world except the result!
Next Page.