Day 1, Tuesday 19th February - Phnom Penh

Cambodia, a new experience..... Apart from using the border check-point at Aranyaprathet to extend my stay in Thailand on one occasion, I have never visited Cambodia before; certainly not to stay. My 30 days allowance for a stay in Thailand without a visa is about to expire so as part of my overall travel plan I will exit the country and spend around a week in Cambodia. My departure has been fixed for some while and more recently the first two nights in Phnom Penh. Thereafter, I will decide where to stay as I go along dividing my time equally between the capital and Siem Reap to allow a visit to Angkor Wat. The overall tour will be for 7 days minimum depending on circumstances. The return to Thailand will be made overland.
Don Meuang International Airport..... There are foxes, badgers and rabbits in a serene countryside setting in rural England. Nothing could be more peaceful! Then 'puff' the scene disappears as surely as clicking on the TV remote. The alarm just went off. It's 3.45 am. I have just 1 hour to get ready. That includes coffee, croissants and jam. I order a taxi which arrives before 5 am and I'm away to Don Meuang International Airport. This airport was the original international airport before the new Suvarnabhumi Airport opened. After that, Don Meuang became an airport for regional and domestic passengers only. Then in autumn 2011, it was badly affected by the great flood and out of commission for 4 months. Air Asia moved its operations to Suvarnabhumi but returned to Don Meuang in the spring of 2012 after this airport was refurbished and put back into service. As Air Asia offers a short-haul service to major cities in south-east Asia, this has helped Don Mueang retain its status as an international airport.
I arrive in good time to find the airport quite busy but overall I'm generally impressed with what they've achieved here. The buildings look fresh and new albeit without the glamour of Suvarnabhumi. It was fifteen months ago that I viewed the runway from the elevated tollway to see it completely submerged in floodwater. I proceed through passport control and security checks. If I had left it one day longer there would have been an overstay fine.
Air Asia flight FD2772..... The Air Asia flight is on time and the aircraft is airborne by 7 pm. From my window seat, I note the aircraft heading west over the Chao Phraya River in the opposite direction to its destination. However it soon banks sharp left on a U-turn. Presumably it's avoiding the flight path into Suvarnabhumi Airport which is to the north. I manage to get a little sleep but in no time the aircraft is making its decent. Of course, I'm focused on the arrival in Phnom Penh as this is my first visit here. The land looks parched and dry and far less densely populated than in Thailand. From altitude, the buildings look modern and fresh. It's not surprising. Cambodia has had a new beginning.
Phnom Penh arrival..... The small airport in the capital is a credit to the new Cambodia. As another new construction, it looks clean and tidy and with relatively little traffic, progressing through passport control and customs is quick and efficient. Having obtained my e-visa in advance there is no need for me to queue as most of the passengers requiring a visa head for the visa on arrival desk. I'm soon at the entrance. It's here that a little homework pays off.
Cambodia's currency is the Riel but for any large purchases and as a substitute, the US dollar is widely used. In fact, I obtain dollars from an ATM in the airport terminal. Just a tip I learnt though: It is better to withdraw on odd amount, or you will be left holding big notes which may be hard to change. The Riel is interchangeable at 4,000/Riel per dollar.
Secondly, as I need transport into the city about 7 kilometres away, I learnt that the rate in the airport complex is $7-$10 dollars but by walking just 100 yards through the perimeter fence a tuk-tuk will take you in for just $5. I'm also impressed with the amount of English language spoken and it becomes no trouble to get the driver headed in the direction of my selected hotel. As the tuk-tuk heads into the city, I have a chance to look around. Certainly near the airport it is not built up and the roads not too busy. That will change as the tuk-tuk nears the city. Certainly, most of the buildings look modern, evidence of Cambodia's rebuilding program. Only in the city itself, is there evidence of former decay after the Pol Pot years. The driver stops to allow me to change my large dollar bills then proceeds into the city. I have been warned that many of these drivers are from rural areas and do not know the city that well. My driver does make one U-turn, but I'm soon at Lucky Star Hotel in 336 Street.
Lucky Star Hotel..... Lucky Star Hotel is one of the older hotels located in the business district. It does have all the usual amenities that I expect but as it turns out, it is not so convenient for cafés, restaurants and tourist attractions so local transport will be required for these. I am however near the new City Shopping Mall and The Olympic Stadium (the stadium that never was). The reception staff are generally helpful but lack a certain charisma compared to their Thai equivalent. Arriving on an early flight, I'm pleased to be able to check in at around 9 am. When I inquire about coffee or hot water for my flask, they are happy to fill the latter which enables me to add 3 in 1 coffee I brought from Thailand. When I inquire about the city's tourist attractions they help with this also. So far so good.
City Mall shopping centre..... The City Mall is just 5 minutes away. The Lucky supermarket chain has opened a branch here and even replicates MacDonald's with its burgers. Apart from a Chinese restaurant on the upper floor however, there is still little choice and certainly there is retail space still available. Something for the future I guess. Wandering around the supermarket, I see so many imported goods from all over south-east Asia and China but, as you would expect, more expensive and priced only in US dollars. The wine is about the same price as the UK but the spirits and beer much cheaper. I head back to Lucky Star Hotel not wishing for further activity at present. It's quite hot today.
Getting my bearings..... As with any new location, it is necessary to achieve some manner of orientation from where you are staying. Obtaining a street map is a good start. From here you can plan your trips within a given timeframe. From Lucky Star Hotel it's a good 15 minutes by tuk-tuk to the riverside known as Sisowath Quay. It's near the river bank that most of Phnom Penh's important buildings are situated including the royal palace. But I head for Sisowath Quay really just as an exploratory visit knowing that in the evening the quayside is an excellent venue for just relaxing and taking diner at the many and varied restaurants along its length. I take a tuk-tuk downtown surprised that the owner has excellent Thai but his English not so. By the end of the journey I have arranged with him an important excursion for tomorrow. But first some diner or so I thought. As I come to pay him I realize I left my currency in the room. I took it out of the wallet really to work out what I have, remembering that I'm working in two currencies, dollars and Riel. Well I find an ATM, but it's not working. The second one wants to charge me $5 for a cash withdrawal. In the end I realise I have hidden away UK pounds and Thai baht in my wallet. Working with four currencies no wonder I'm confused. A money changer takes a liking to Thai baht rather than UK pounds and I just have enough to pay the tuk-tuk driver, pay for lunch and transport back to Lucky Star. There's no shortage of choice where to eat, but I settle on a restaurant and order chicken curry and spring rolls. They ask me whether I would like noodles or bread with my curry. I order bread knowing full well I don't ever remember eating bread with curry but as in Laos and Vietnam the French have left a legacy in the form of the humble baguette. All in all it is very reasonable considering I had a beer and they added a fruit dessert for free.
I head back through the mad evening traffic wondering what the French would have thought would happen to their beautifully designed boulevards in years to come. Yes it is chaotic with motorbikes swarming in most suicidal fashion, but I feel a lot of the problem is due to lack of adequate traffic control systems. A glass of wine and an early night is what I need now.
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