Day 3, Saturday 2 February 2013 - Pai

All board for Chiang Mai..... Today I have a destination in mind, but it's questionable whether I will arrive there today. With an early start I could easily make it by bus but while considering using Lampang as a stopover I have in mind to use the train which will be a lot slower and not scheduled to depart until 10.27. The opportunity to travel through the mountains by this form of transport is hard to resist. I now have plenty of time before then to pack and prepare to depart. That will include a welcome coffee at the guesthouse and an early lunch later. At 9.30 am I'm ready and wander down to the station with my new backpack I bought in Chatujak, Bangkok surprisingly comfortable.
At the ticket office, my plans for today are immediately compromised. As with yesterday the Chiang Mai train is running an hour late. In fact, it is much nearer midday before the Express train is on its way to Chiang Mai. I have selected a 2nd class seat; much more comfortable allowing me some sleep, but I wake with a jerk. The train has entered to mountains and at a small siding a second locomotive is coupled to the train for the final assent to the summit. The foreign passengers seem excited, poking there cameras in every direction. I'm here to join the party accentuated by the roar of two engines negotiating the incline. The train enters a tunnel terminating at the summit where the assisting locomotive decouples. One engine will suffice from here. The 51 Express service finally reaches Chiang Mai, but it's nearly 2.30 pm.
A change of plan..... My thoughts of reaching the furthest point in my travels north by the end of the day on this trip have by now receded but were soon killed off completely having been further compromised by lack of research through not having an internet connection in Lampang. Although it's not far from the railway station to the bus terminal, the red songtheaw, Chiang Mai's distinctive transport is intent of doing a tour of the city to deposit other passengers. It seems I travel a complete loop being the last to arrive at my destination. With hindsight, I should have exited the station and flagged down a songtheaw which would have saved time and money. At the terminal it is confirmed that all transport to Mae Hong Son, my preferred destination, has departed by now. I'm not surprised. It involves 5 hours through some of the most difficult mountain roads in Thailand by minivan and more than seven hours by bus. Such is the demand, that many of the services are fully booked for tomorrow it being the weekend but as always in Thailand there are options. I could stay in Chiang Mai and make an early start in the morning, but I would prefer to make it to Mae Hong Son as soon as possible. As I continue with my enquiries at the bus terminal another option presents itself. I can travel now by minivan, not to Mae Hong Son but to Pai, a little over half way. This unscheduled stop may prove a blessing in disguise.
Hold onto your false teeth!.... The journey to Pai involves using the northern route to Mae Hong Son. It is quicker than the southern route but comes at a price; a plastic bag and motion-sickness pills are recommended. The van departs at 4.30 pm. It will be dark on arrival at Pai. I am taking a chance in being able to find suitable accommodation as it's still high-season. Half an hour in, the van turns onto highway 1095 and into the mountains. From here the 762 unforgettable curves await. The plastic bag proves unnecessary, but progress is slow. Still there are spectacular views as dusk falls. At the summit of the pass there is a checkpoint staffed by border police, a reminder that the border with Myanmar is not far away. This stop also offers a toilet break. The trip down the valley is no less demanding but thankfully by 7.30 pm the van arrives in the main street at Pai. However there is still some work to do.
Palm House..... Although Pai has some 350 resorts, hotels and guest houses, such is the demand in high season, that these are often fully booked. So it is that when I start to inquire I'm met with the answer 'dtem krap' (full). Naturally, those offering the best deals are taken first and those more centrally located. But despite a huge choice I'm going to have to search further afield. The first room I find available is well overpriced and the bathroom not even finished. It takes a good half hour to find something suitable but at least it's much cooler here. At Palm House at least they have a choice of rooms and soon I'm settled in. As mentioned, I know little about Pai, but it's soon clear that this is a popular tourist area. From what I now know I decide to stay for a couple of nights. As I venture out, I find myself in 'walking street', reminding me of the night market in Hua Hin; even more so. In fact the whole area has mushroomed in the last ten years to become an important tourist resort, a fact which had totally eluded me until now. As I look around for something to call dinner I skip the street-food sellers and try an international style restaurant for a change. Big mistake! The food is tasteless and well overpriced, but I guess after a beer it won't seem so bad. However, I don't really need a beer to put me out. The 762 unforgettable curves have seen to that.