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Tuesday 9 December 2014
Thonburi……..After another concerted effort on preparing my photo files for publishing, I decide to make yet another concerted effort on shopping. I agree to travel into the city with Katoon by bus but wonder whether she has ideas of her own. First I need to change some more money as I head for Supan Kwai where just around the corner in Pradiphat Road there are a number of money changers offering arguably the best rates in Bangkok.
Thonburi……..After another concerted effort on preparing my photo files for publishing, I decide to make yet another concerted effort on shopping. I agree to travel into the city with Katoon by bus but wonder whether she has ideas of her own. First I need to change some more money as I head for Supan Kwai where just around the corner in Pradiphat Road there are a number of money changers offering arguably the best rates in Bangkok.
BTS departure from Supan Kwai and arrival at Talad Phlu
That’s the easy bit done but when Katoon suggests that we can do shopping later I’m not totally convinced but it’s still early. She wants to travel on the Thonburi, for what reason I’m not totally sure. Ever had that feeling you’re on a mystery tour? OK it’s an easy trip by BTS, I think, with Supan Kwai BTS station near the bus stop. However we still need to change trains at Siam for the Silom Line trip across the river. By the time we reach Talad Phlu it’s past the normal lunch break. Talad Phlu is an odd place on a railway line. However this is an independent line from Wong Wian Yai to Mahachi which has been covered on an earlier tour. The line is in sorry state but due for an upgrade, part of the electrified SRT red line urban extension. It will then be connected to the main system but this is totally dependent on completion of the tunnel under the Chao Phraya which is currently work in progress. We take lunch of sorts at Talad Phlu station. Then, not totally to my surprise we head for a temple.
Wat Ratcha Krut……..With my head still spinning from the previous tour, I wonder if I can handle another temple. A short walk away is Wat Ratcha Krut. I’m told it’s important I come here. There is nothing outwardly significant about this temple except, in a small viharn, a Buddha image is in a pose I’m not used to seeing. The pose is as in death with the image lying prostrate. It’s seems morbid but I’m told on the contrary it’s where people come to pray for good health, or perhaps in my case to give thanks that my health has been quite good on my current visit to Thailand.
Wat Intharam Worawihan……..A short walk away is another temple, or is it a complex of two or even three? As I enter the temple grounds I feel at a huge disadvantage, despite a signboard giving its name in English with a brief history included. Based on what I know about Thai history, it’s not hard to see that I’m in another very hallowed place. One cannot talk about Thonburi without reference to King Taksin who unified Siam after the sack of Ayutthaya in 1767 by the Burmese. King Taksin chose his new capital here in Thonburi although with development east of the Chao Phraya, the capital was subsequently moved. With little to go on at present; there is precious little in English, I have to rely on what I see or am told. It’s enough for me to realise that this temple contains relics relating to King Taksin. His remains appear to rest in a chedi in front of a viharn where presently there is much activity.
Wat Ratcha Krut……..With my head still spinning from the previous tour, I wonder if I can handle another temple. A short walk away is Wat Ratcha Krut. I’m told it’s important I come here. There is nothing outwardly significant about this temple except, in a small viharn, a Buddha image is in a pose I’m not used to seeing. The pose is as in death with the image lying prostrate. It’s seems morbid but I’m told on the contrary it’s where people come to pray for good health, or perhaps in my case to give thanks that my health has been quite good on my current visit to Thailand.
Wat Intharam Worawihan……..A short walk away is another temple, or is it a complex of two or even three? As I enter the temple grounds I feel at a huge disadvantage, despite a signboard giving its name in English with a brief history included. Based on what I know about Thai history, it’s not hard to see that I’m in another very hallowed place. One cannot talk about Thonburi without reference to King Taksin who unified Siam after the sack of Ayutthaya in 1767 by the Burmese. King Taksin chose his new capital here in Thonburi although with development east of the Chao Phraya, the capital was subsequently moved. With little to go on at present; there is precious little in English, I have to rely on what I see or am told. It’s enough for me to realise that this temple contains relics relating to King Taksin. His remains appear to rest in a chedi in front of a viharn where presently there is much activity.
Wat Intharam Worawihan dedicated to King Taksin who unified Siam after the sack of Ayutthaya in 1767 by the BurmeseAn annual celebration in commemoration (bottom right)
Amid much chanting and discharge of firecrackers there is an important ceremony in progress. I’m here to investigate and it soon becomes clear that an important Buddhist elder is performing a ritual blessing of this holy site. I’m in the hall amidst quite frantic activity intent not only in talking still photographs but an extended video as well. I soon get swallowed up in the excitement and receive a souvenir blessed by the senior monk. I’m told I’m so fortunate to be here at this time to receive good luck. It is not a regular event. I’m later told that this particular temple is not the only one in Thonburi dedicated to King Taksin but it seems to be the most important. The complex of temple buildings and chedis that can be seen nearby were constructed during the reign of King Rama III and their design was influenced by Chao Phraya waterway nearby i.e. the use of boats for transport. This has been another experience that has come to me out of the blue but the afternoon is warring on. As a final thought, this historically important site is far from being on the tourist map and would definitely require a guide. It’s quite hard to get to which is a pity. Oddly there is a klong beside the temple which connects to the Chao Phraya but is used only for charter boats. I must head back but not by water. I establish that there is a bus 111 that passes close to the Chao Phraya. It’s from Taksin Pier that I can take a boat to my next destination.
Asiatique……..From the Thonburi side it’s necessary to cross the Chao Phraya by ferry boat yet even this short trip offers glorious views from the river. On the east bank there is a sign to the Asiatique ferry boat which is free. I’ve been aware of this venue for some time and remember the public reaction when it first opened in 2012. I’m still only vaguely aware of what’s there and being my first trip I will naturally want to review it. I do know that when the venue first opened there was a rush of public interest which overwhelmed the shuttle boat service. As it turns out I’m in the first half dozen in this queue but I must have just missed a boat as by the time another arrives the queue is wrapped around the pier. Apparently they’ve now produced a larger boat which seems to be coping. Clearly the site’s reputation seems to have spread as a number of foreign visitors make up the queue. As the boat heads out into the river it’s still not dark but soon the lights glow in the distance as the most prominent feature at Asiatique comes into view.
Asiatique……..From the Thonburi side it’s necessary to cross the Chao Phraya by ferry boat yet even this short trip offers glorious views from the river. On the east bank there is a sign to the Asiatique ferry boat which is free. I’ve been aware of this venue for some time and remember the public reaction when it first opened in 2012. I’m still only vaguely aware of what’s there and being my first trip I will naturally want to review it. I do know that when the venue first opened there was a rush of public interest which overwhelmed the shuttle boat service. As it turns out I’m in the first half dozen in this queue but I must have just missed a boat as by the time another arrives the queue is wrapped around the pier. Apparently they’ve now produced a larger boat which seems to be coping. Clearly the site’s reputation seems to have spread as a number of foreign visitors make up the queue. As the boat heads out into the river it’s still not dark but soon the lights glow in the distance as the most prominent feature at Asiatique comes into view.
The complimentory river boat journey from Taksin Pier at dusk and sights along the Chao Phraya RiverArrival at Asiatique and the return after dark
That’s the easy bit done but when Katoon suggests that we can do shopping later I’m not totally convinced but it’s still early. She wants to travel on the Thonburi, for what reason I’m not totally sure. Ever had that feeling you’re on a mystery tour? OK it’s an easy trip by BTS, I think, with Supan Kwai BTS station near the bus stop. However we still need to change trains at Siam for the Silom Line trip across the river. By the time we reach Talad Phlu it’s past the normal lunch break. Talad Phlu is an odd place on a railway line. However this is an independent line from Wong Wian Yai to Mahachi which has been covered on an earlier tour. The line is in sorry state but due for an upgrade, part of the electrified SRT red line urban extension. It will then be connected to the main system but this is totally dependent on completion of the tunnel under the Chao Phraya which is currently work in progress. We take lunch of sorts at Talad Phlu station. Then, not totally to my surprise we head for a temple. Next Page.