Swampland - 24 September 2024

Irritation.....I'm halfway through my current stay in Thailand and things could not be more different to the last with just 3 overnight trips recorded as I refocus on doing the things I like best. But those things don't restrict me from planning something more ambitious before I return. The main issue though is the flooding which is affecting the very parts I'd like to visit. Another irritation is that I'm waiting for medical supplies from the UK which should have arrived long before now. This means some plans are on hold and I must continue with these day trips for now. Today the weather is overcast with intermittent rain, but I have in mind to reach the coast again, and it's not for sunbathing. We manage to put a plan together and that attracts the attention of a friend who wishes to join us.
I've mentioned it a number of times that the coast around the Chao Phraya Delta which stretches for some 100 km, has no beaches, but the mangrove along the shoreline is a rich wildlife habitat and here and there are ocean viewpoints. As we already know, this is a perfect environment for peace and tranquility in the marshes not that far from urban life in Bangkok. Today I've chosen one of these places, although it's a bit of gamble. Meanwhile, Katoon has located something of historic interest so let's get on the case.
Ban Khun Samut Chin.....We head south through the urban sprawl and reach the coastal area of Phra Samut Chedi district in Samut Prakan. Ever present are the khlongs which crisscross the marsh, but soon it's the other way round as only roads appear above the waterline. Here no construction is possible except for a few dwellings on the only dry land available. We reach the furthest point by vehicle noting that only recently has a road been put in here.
We look around, and I fear that there is nowhere to take lunch, but a lady soon appears and directs us to a homestay in the marshland. To reach it you have to travel along a concrete walkway then over an improvised log bridge to a strip of land just 10 metres across. Here there are reed huts and a stilt restaurant. This is not Siam Paragon for sure. We are the only ones here but where a meal will appear from is anyone's guess. But appear it does and what a super seafood lunch we have before us including the amazing sea bass. You just feel you are in another world here and fast food it is not. Take your time, it's magic hour.
Wat Khun Samutrawat.....With lunch over, I mustn't forget this is not the main attraction here. Wat Khun Samutrawat is located on an islet off the shore. It is only 200 metres long and reached by a concrete walkway about 300 metres long. This is and old temple, now abandoned, with some attempt at restoration which is pointless. Sea levels have risen a few feet since it was built, and they have added a false floor but the doorways are now just 4 foot high (child's play). The aspect looking out to sea is nothing spectacular especially on a day like this but it's pleasant enough with the memorial to Royalty and exhibits relating to past trade with the Chinese in the area. We've spent far more time here than expected, and the wildcard has turned up trumps in this desolate area. Let's find some more history as we head to Phi Suea Samut island.
Phi Suea Samut Fort Museum.....Phi Suea Samut island is a islet in the Chao Phraya River just 100 metres from the shore. To reach the island you need to use a footbridge at the northern end then walk to for 600 metres to the southern tip which is where the fort is. This fort was part of the defence against threats by ships from downriver. It has three gun emplacements, magazines and a warehouse. The guns are known as disappearing guns which is artillery installed behind fortification walls with mechanisms that lift the gun for firing and then retract it to protection. These were installed, especially in coastal defenses, from the 1860s until as late as 1923.
My visit to this fort complements nicely my visit to the Phra Chulachomklao Fort in February 2023 which is a must-visit to learn about the Paknam Incident which was a military engagement fought during the Franco-Siamese crisis in July 1893.
One attraction left out today is Wat Asokaram as it was on an earlier trip. Will it be 3rd time lucky for this temple? It's been a good day and the rain has stayed away for the most part. There's been a lot to think about and proves once again there's no need to go the the ends of the earth to learn something new.

Source: Visit