First Anniversary..... We've only just returned from the north, but today our adventures continue unabated. Today though is special as it's our 1st Wedding Anniversary. It's been a while wondering what to do today, but selection of venue goes to Katoon and has been scaled back from my original ideas. It's going to be a a low-key affair with no fanfare. Reaching the coast again is my preferred location, but that turns into reaching a riverbank but the most notable thing is that it's a 2-hour drive away in Samut Songkram Province. Seafood is definitely on the mind though.
We head out before lunch and find ourselves at Thanommit Market and decide to eat lunch here. That means it will be dinner on the river later in the day. The journey to Samut Songkram means heading across town, not the most exciting prospect taking half the time needed to reach our destination. We head out over the Rama IX Bridge noting the substantial work-in-progress here to create an elevated tollway along the Rama II Road. This road heads west through Samut Sakhon province and onto Samut Songkram. It will still be early afternoon before we arrive and that gives us time to look around. Samut Songkram is the gateway to the South and has had low coverage during my travels so far. It's over to Katoon to put that right today as we reach an important attraction.
Wat Bang Kung..... On reaching Wat Bang Kung, a couple of things really stand out. Here is an old ubosot (ordination hall) from the late Ayutthaya period, the fabric of which has survived only as a result of being encapsulated by native trees, inside which is a large statue of Nin Mani Buddha, locally called Luang Phor Dum dating from the late Ayutthaya kingdom. Despite its importance, there is little onsite information in English to work with. What there is, concentrates on the four tree species, Bodhi, Banyan, Krai and Krang, the roots of which cover the building. One species I'm familiar with is 'ton sai' which is a type of fig tree the likes of which is best recognised at Angkor Wat in Cambodia.
The second thing of note is that this was the site of an army camp and much has been done to preserve its history. This relates to one of the battles with the Burmese. After the fall of Ayutthaya in 1767, the temple witnessed a crucial naval battle, resulting in a symbolic victory for Siam.
After visiting Wat Bang Kung, we note other attractions here near the Mae Klong River and just have to investigate.
Wat Pak Nam..... A temple existed at Wat Pak Nam in the Ayutthaya period. Pak Nam means 'river mouth' and is located where the Khwae Om River reaches the Mae Khlong. Features of this temple include the largest reclining Buddha image in Samut Songkhram province, Phra Phutthachai, built with ancient jars, Luang Pho Tanjai and Luang Pho Ban Laem Buddha's footprint, an early Rattanakosin era viharn (sermon hall) and an old pavilion. From this temple you can gaze across the Mae Khlong in peaceful surroundings.
Wat Bangkhae Noi..... This is another temple built on the Mae Khlong riverbank and dating from 1868 built by a high-ranking official. This temple's ordination hall was once located on a bamboo raft, which was tied to a sacred Bodhi tree on the riverbank. The interior walls hold woodcarvings depicting Lord Buddha's life as well as stories of his Ten Incarnations, or Jatakas. Artisans from Phetchaburi province, famed for woodcarving, crafted the beautiful designs.
Ancient Thai Cat Conservation Center (Thai Cat House)..... The Ancient Thai Cat Conservation Center is a project to preserve old cat species. The centre is small and of necessity the cats are kept in cages with a nursery for kittens. You can order your feline friend from here or make a donation. If you arrive in person, like me, be prepared for the strong smell. Ask the lady here to fetch you a cat to handle, and you'll feel like a kid again or bring your own. Kids that is.
Wat Bang Khae Klang..... Wat Bang Khae Klang was built in the early Rattanakosin era after the Fall of Ayutthaya (1767). It has an interesting history that has yet to find its way to the web. We arrive here to be greeted by a monk who is pleased to show us around, first visiting the old ubosot (ordination hall) where the history of this temple is etched on the walls together with a photograph of the patron. Unfortunately, everything that is discussed is in Thai and in these circumstances I usually have to add what I can find on the net, but that doesn't work here. My feeling is that, 'if only walls could talk'. The history lesson continues, and I regret not using a voice recorder. My understanding is that the temple was built on the site of an older temple in 1814 during the reign of King Rama II and that the patron of the temple was related to him. Monks here continue to offer a history lesson as we are shown the Hor Trai (scripture hall) where precious documents were kept. Next we are introduced to a former abbot's quarters which is kept as a memorial to him. Religious and personal items are kept here, and the building is not open to the public meaning I get special privilege to view ,and I am not disappointed given my interest in olden times. Despite the precious objects all around, a mural on one of the wall panels is intriguing being coloured only from natural materials found in the forest albeit that it's a little faded now. The mural is contemporary with the early 19th Century and is a time capsule of how life must have appeared to the rulers of the time. The mural is a map capturing events at that time or even before. To the north is the source of the river system here which is in Tak province and to the west is Chedi Sam Ong (Three Pagodas Pass) on the Thai/Myanmar or the then Siam/Burma border. To the south there are ships and the coast reaching as far as Prachuap Kiri Khan. In the centre is what most mattered then, the security of Samut Songkham, the town full of activity and nearby the garrison housing the army ready to repel invaders. I do hope that the history of this temple reaches the public. Otherwise, so much here will be hidden from them.
Wat Prok Suthammaram..... Wat Prok Suthammaram is another old temple but all that survives are the wood paneled buildings constructed in less prosperous times. The old chapel which was demolished housed the Luang Pho Yai image, now housed in the pavilion, with a number of Buddha images from the Ayutthaya without a home. Amidst competition over resources, not everything survives. There is so much history in Thailand supported by artifacts that here will always be winners and losers.
This is as much as I can manage, and I certainly hadn't expected that much. Almost by accident I have uncovered a small corner of Samut Songkram which is so easily missed with the focus on Ampawa Floating Market. I'm left wondering what else there is to discover here but for now let's just enjoy our anniversary meal.
Namthip Kitchen..... We arrive at Namthip Kitchen and find it on a bend of the Mae Khlong River close to the bridge carrying HWY 325, but my first impressions aren't great. There are no views looking out to the ocean of course and the bridge is a bit of an eyesore. Then the Mae Khlong River is a muddy brown as you would expect during the monsoon season and to cap it all we've only just sat down, and it begins to rain. There will be no romantic setting sun tonight. We order seafood of course or rather Katoon does, but it's no what I expect: No whole fish on a platter or perhaps buttered prawns not to mention a crab eyeing you up. Another pot of tum yum turns up, but soup wasn't on my mind. It doesn't mean disaster but as I take in the day's progress, I will remember it more for what I learnt from the temple visits. As we finish up it's 7.00 pm with a nice drive back though Bangkok to look forward too while thinking where I'd rather be. Now after six days on the road, it's time to catch up with things.
Source: Visit