Day 3 - Sunday 26 June 2016

Leam Sadet Aquarium........Fortunately on waking today I see no sign of rain but there’s no urgency to get out and about. Everything we need for breakfast was brought in yesterday. I can spend some time activating my blog online but even with that delay I’m at my first attraction of the day at 10.30am picking up where I left off yesterday.
KKB Aquarium is not one of the biggest but there is a good selection of marine life on view including a main tank for larger fish with the usual visitor tunnel under. The rest of the marine life resides in individual tanks representing life from the tropical regions of S. E. Asia. It’s worth a visit as it’s easy to get to and free. You should be able to punch a big hole in an hour here unless you’re a complete codfish.

Ao Krung Kraben Mangrove Trial........Another location that didn’t make the list yesterday, this mangrove trail justified my decision to leave it off; it’s one of the larger ones. A well maintained plank walkway takes you deep into the swamp through natural vegetation and through areas of regeneration planned as community projects. For example there is an area for collecting and cultivating the mangrove spears and other plant species. However the area is not confined to flourishing flora. Crustaceans are an important part of the eco system which helps sustain the local community. There are fireflies and a number of bird species but one of the world’s more curious creatures also lives in Ao Krung Kraben; the dugong.
A complete circuit of the trail takes nearly an hour and a half if you include a trip up to the observation tower and to the shore of Ao Krung Kraben. I welcome a walk along this trail as it’s a great way to observe this notable natural habitat and get some exercise at the same time.

Chanthaburi Cathedral........With Leam Sadet seemingly now covered, it’s time for something less natural as we head for Chanthaburi City. Chanthaburi can rightly be classified this way on account of its splendid Catholic cathedral which received its status in 1944. From Chao Lao we have headed east and made a bee line for the Cathedral of Mary Immaculate Conception on the east bank of the Chanthaburi River. We’ve begun employing Google Map as a route finder and we soon reach the car park. My first impression of this gothic style structure is one of pleasant surprise. I’ve haven’t seen such a magnificent catholic church yet alone a cathedral so far in Thailand. Its presence here is the result of a commitment by a relatively small number of Catholics who for generations have lived in the area after they fled from persecution in Vietnam around 1700 AD. It certainly makes a statement and well deserves its status.

Old City and Jewellery Quarter........Sukhaphiban Rd in the old city lies along the west bank of the Chanthaburi River Google Map. Its narrow street typifies most of what this area was like several hundred years ago at the time of Portuguese traders who likely helped support the Christian refugees. Some of the original Portuguese houses still stand along the waterfront.
We arrive here simply by crossing a footbridge over the Chanthaburi River from the cathedral on the opposite bank. Without too much deliberation we take lunch overlooking the river in the most peaceful presence of the twin towers of the cathedral opposite. These are magical if not wholly spiritual moments but it’s time to move on although not far. We find Trok Kachang, a narrow side road leading away from the river. Here is the Jewellery Quarter, a cluster of small Jewellery shops now famous throughout Thailand at least. A popular gem from the area is Siamese ruby but gems from most worldwide locations can be found. Also popular are sapphires in various colours and quality. It’s time to head back to the car.

City Pillar Shrine and Shrine of King Taksin the Great........We next head back along Thaluang Road. The City Pillar Shrine or Shrine of the City Guardian Spirit is situated 500 meters west of the river near the Shrine of King Taksin the Great. It is believed to have been built in 1767 AD by the King after his conquest over the Burmese. The shrine to King Taksin is a small, nine-sided structure topped by a roof designed to look like the pointed and round brimmed hat that Taksin was known for wearing while riding into battle. Inside a small statue of the king sits surrounded by flowers, candles and statuettes of fighting cocks, considered symbols of strength. Despite its historic significance there is not a lot to see but it is a welcome addition to my tour and uses up little time.

Chanthaburi Gems and Jewellery Centre........Google Map. It’s now after 4pm and not much left in the locker, yet we head south along Leab Noen Road, passing the Taksin Park. We follow a sign to the Chanthaburi Gems and Jewellery Centre, a purpose built structure for the trade. We manage to get inside the trading centre but it’s about to close, now near 4.30pm. Nevertheless we talk to some of the traders as if our bags were full of notes. It’s another first for this website.
Noen Wong Fortress........My research for the Chanthaburi City visit was not particularly studious. In fact I filed what I read in my head. Now it’s been well used it seems to have a few holes in it. Katoon comes to the rescue knowing I’m interested in military matters. I’ve seen a sign to the Maritime Museum which looks quite interesting but this late in the day it’s bound to be closed now. Nevertheless I’m directed towards it. Travelling out of the city to the southwest I pick up signs but when I locate it, I’m in for a surprise. I see the entrance is though an archway but it’s no ordinary archway. It’s just wide enough for a car but no wonder it’s narrow, it’s the entrance to the old Noen Wong Fortress, built in 1834 by King Rama III during hostilities with the Vietnamese. The brick walls surrounded by a moat support 39 cannon still in situ. The Fine Arts Department discovered inscriptions giving dates for the cannon from 1789. This is a wonderful discovery for me and delightful end to this touring day. For the record before it leaks through the holes, the Maritime Museum is open from 9am to 4pm Wednesday to Friday. Monday and Tuesday it’s closed.

Long Day........It’s a straightforward run now back to Chao Lao Beach but Katoon has the final word and wants to have dinner at the restaurant we ate at yesterday lunchtime. I’m not so keen. This has been a really tiring day for me and I’d just like to head back to the room for a beer and put my feet up but Katoon over orders with plates of seafood. It’s ridiculously cheap really but if I eat any more seafood I can swim back to the UK! As I get back to write these notes I see France have just beaten the Irish Republic. It’s after 10pm now and probably my last day in Chao Lao. Better make the best of it. Next Page.